Circle of derp. A gathering of individuals who share a fundamentally flawed, factually incorrect or misunderstood notion who, by the act of communication and commiseration, grow more fervent in their belief and radical in behavior. I read of the circle and am seeing it acted out. Regardless of your political polarity, the current circus in D.C. and for that matter in Dover is deplorable. All should heed the Bard of Avon, “Give me a bowl of wine. In this I bury all unkindness,” or better, Christopher Marlowe, “We control 50 percent of a relationship.” Machiavelli said, ”One of the great secrets of the day is to know how to take possession of popular prejudices and passions in such a way as to introduce a confusion of principles which makes impossible all understanding between those who speak the same language and have the same interests.” I’ve written these quotes not as a position, but to illustrate that “There is nothing new under the sun,” said by both Careme and Escoffier, chefs so famous they are known just by their last names. I’m guessing there was also a reference in Archestratus, “the Daedalus of tasty dishes,” whose Hedypatheia or Life of Luxury told gastronomes of his day where to find the best Mediterranean fare. We only know of him by disparaging reference from the likes of Antiphanes, Aristotle and Chrysippus, who wrote, “One is therefore not to study Philaenis, or the Gastronomy of Archestratus, with the expectation of improving one’s life! Clearly, in quoting this Archestratus so often, you people have filled our banquet with indecency. Is there anything calculated to corrupt that this fine poet has failed to say?” - Athenaeus, Deipnosophistae. These wrongheaded derps were always with us.
On an uplifting note, Chanukah Dec. 23-30, Christmas Dec. 25, and Kwanzaa Dec. 26, rarely occur in such proximity. Hopefully most will embrace the spirit of these holidays and tone down the rhetoric. My liver needs a break. However, in preparation, a few affordable palliative (relieving pain without dealing with the problem/condition) selections follow. Both served at President Mandela’s and President Obama’s inaugurations. Graham Beck Brut NV, 89 McD, can be found in Delaware around $17 and a case of four magnums at $160. Blended of 53 percent Chard, 47 percent PN, aged 15 months on lees in bottle before disgorgement. Tight bead, creamy with citrus aromas, some yeast characteristics and pears on the palate. Another from South Africa, Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rosé 2016, is a rare find. I bought some from Pennsylvania Liquor Control. Locating a vintage Rosé sparkler of this quality for $20 is rare.
Domaine Anderson in Mendocino is owned by Roederer. The 2016 Estate Pinot Noir label is an enjoyable 91-point McD under $40. Needs some time. Try to find the 2014 at a similar price. Earthy, cherry, smoky nose with a hint of clove. Cherry repeats on palate with more oak-driven spice. Another Anderson Valley lovely PN is the 2016 Ferrari Carano, 91 points around $32. Those who like game birds, especially duck and goose, should ask their wine store pal to find the 2017 or ‘18 Storm Wines Vrede Pinot Noir from Walker Bay, South Africa. These need some time but are worth the search. Be careful here. Although the past seven vintages have been 89-90 McD points, this is a vintage-specific suggestion. The 2015 is a bit less expensive and rates 89 points. It surged after Wine Enthusiast gave it 95 points and placed it in the top 100 list. I’m going with RP on this at 92 McD. The 2017 shows cherries, herbs and berry aromas. On the palate, more cherry is supported by saline notes, proper acidity and some oak-driven spice. Finishes long and clean.
Many have asked for affordable, upscale, sweet white wine that is top flight. Royal Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos, 2013, at $50, just entered its window and will cellar through at least 2030. Be sure to aerate and serve at 65 degrees or so to enjoy beautiful aromas. Although this wine is quite sweet, the acidity levels are also very high, providing a perfect balance. Topaz colored, with a waxy (good for this type of wine) apricot palate. Puttonyos defines sweetness and the scale is 3-6. An aside, Decanter’s list of 100 wines to drink before you die chose the 1993. However, experts claim the 1999 is even better. Oddly, it had lower ratings on release.
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Email John at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
