Australian wines have overcome hurdles
I’d like to start by wishing all a terrific New Year. 2014 was very interesting and exciting for me, and I’m hoping to continue in the same vein this year. To kick off, I decided to go to the mailbag and try to answer some questions. I was surprised how many were asking about Australian wine. I guess I should explain that the Aussies ran into trouble when Treasury Wine Estates Ltd., owner of Penfolds and Beringer, destroyed $35 million of out-of-date stock. This was followed by a further announcement they were dumping $145 million worth of inventory. The headlines were devastating to the entire industry in Australia.
The event prompted Petaluma Winery founder Brian Croser to write an article excoriating the conglomerates for jumping on the good reputation the independents had developed in producing first-class wine by flooding the markets with mundane fare. His term was they ”sailed on it.” He claimed they produced large quantities of commodity (polite way of saying plonk) wine and dumped them on the markets, much of it in the $7 range This led to a very rapid decline in Aussie reputation.
Yellowtail, one of the initiators of the trend, was produced by John and Filippo Casella in New South Wales. In 2001 they packaged a decent quality product in a flashy yellow label and within three years were selling around 4 million cases/year in the USA. Today it is closer to 8 million cases and accounts for about half of Aussie wine consumption in the USA. Industrial giants like Jacob's Creek and Rosemount jumped in, making Australia a prime source of mass-market chardonnays and shirazes.
Many were of very questionable quality.
The sad fact is that the babies were thrown out with the bath water. The best Aussie wines are still remarkable. Another issue that impacted Aussie wine was the strengthening of the Aussie dollar. This drove the prices higher right in the midst of the brouhaha. I’m still a fan of Australian wine, and I’m hoping that now you are aware of the situation, you will revisit the market. Some good news is the Aussie dollar has weakened and prices are down. Now is the time to buy Shiraz. You can buy a 95-point Clarendon Hills, Bookman Shiraz 2005 for $75; ready now, will cellar through 2022. Perfect to drink right now is St. Hallett Old Block Shiraz 1998 under $70.
I would be remiss if I failed to mention that domestic syrah are also wonderful. I recently bought a Novy Family Winery Syrah 2005 from St. Lucia Highlands for $28; 91 points. Inky dark and smooth, white pepper, violets, cassis, plums, molasses, leather and root beer nose. On the palate black cherries and kirsch, new oak and glycerin combine for a honey-like mouthfeel. Another would be a Beckman Puresima Mountain Vineyard Ballard Canyon Syrah 2012 from Santa Ynez in California. Very dark purple, jammy and peppery, with layers of blackberry, plum, dark chocolate, truffle, grilled meats, mineral, violet, and pepper riding a properly balanced acid and tannic frame. You can buy a case for $217 or $20/bottle; 91 points.
Bradley Colheita delineates that the varietal juices contained within the bottle of Port are of a single vintage and have been aged, in wood, at least eight years. It is bottled and sold when the producer feels it is ready to drink, and should be consumed in the following year. (Important to check bottling date.) For an excellent read on Port go here: www.snooth.com/articles/port-wine-brings-you-closer-to-christmas-past.
Gus enjoyed my last Priorat recommendation and exclaimed, “Sir, may I have another?” Try Clos Figueres Font de la Figuera 2010. Very dark ruby-colored, opens to currants, cherries and spicy mineral aromas with hints of rose petals and tobacco. On the palate, red fruit blends into black currants, anise and herbal notes. The long, clean finish leaves smoky tannins and spice; 92 points; pay under $33.
