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Wine

Barbaresco is peaking and price is down

June 21, 2011

Hot, hot, hot! But nowhere near as hot as a recent offering for a three-pack of famous Syrahs. Novy Rosella's Vineyard '08, 94 points WE; Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz '06, 95-plus WE, and Durand Cornas Emprientes '09, 94-96, Parker are on sale for three/$100 delivered. This is a truly fine opportunity to sample three of the world's best Syrahs for a reasonable price. When I wrote about the Rosella and St. Henri they were a bargain at $32 and $56 respectively.

Buying the Durand for $12 would be a true bargain. The blockbuster 2009 Cornas Empreintes is an opaque purple color, with aromas of blueberries, blackberry liqueur, graphite and hints of smoke and incense. On the palate, it is a huge, layered, full-bodied wine. The tannins are masked by the fruit and extract. Just starting to drink well, it should cellar for 20. If you can swing it try one three-pack then choose the wine you want to lay in. The Durand may be had for about $350 when you buy a case.

If you are trying for a better price range, the Tablas Creek Cotes de Tablas Rouge 2009, WS 93, should be bought under $28 on case sales. Tablas is a collaboration of the Perrins, owners of Chateau Beaucastel from Rhone and Robert Haas, a USA importer and distributor, owner of Vineyard Brands. The vineyard in Paso Robles is focused on the grapes normally associated with Cotes du Rhone: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Counoise. Drink now through 2016.

I've had very good luck buying L'Esprit de Chevalier, the second label of Domaine de Chevalier, when it has a great year. The 2009 from Domaine de Chevalier Pessac Leognan in Graves produced wonderful whites rated in the 96-98-point range. The 2009 Esprit did not disappoint. Typical Graves color, very pale lemon, it has aromas of melon and peaches. Very rich and concentrated on the palate with ripe honeydew melon, white peach, lychee nut, some minerals plus good acidity. A very long and rich finish, 92 points, buy six under $140.

Tony Galloni said, "Back up the truck on the 2006 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco. I recommended, "Hold your fire or keep your powder dry." The wine needed some cellar time, and production was bountiful. If you enjoy excellent Barbaresco and you reserved the cash, strike now while the iron is hot. The wine is peaking and has come down from $32 to $25/bottle on case buys. This 93-point gem is loaded with ripe dark fruit aromas. On the palate licorice, leather and tar extend through a very long finish. Good concentration and plenty of nose says the wine will age well for 15 more years.

On Sunday we celebrated Marguerite's 30th with family and friends. When each of my children were born, we bought a case of well-known wine to lay down for 21 years plus. The Chateau Mouton '81 we bought for Maggie is still holding up. Sadly, there are only three bottles left. I must tell you that the wine was rated 86-88 points and sold for $480/case in 1983. Most well-known Bordeaux, as you are aware, is aged at least two years before release. The '81 was only expected to last 20-25 years. I am happy to report it is still going strong and appears to be improving.

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