Bogle and Duckhorn offerings available locally
Page two of the Philly tasting also includes a few samples I tried at another venue. I would be remiss, though, if I didn’t cover Bogle Petit Sirah and a couple of Duckhorn wines, all of which are readily available in our area. Let’s start with Bogle. Contrary to its name, where petit means small in French, Petit Sirah is not a small Syrah but a distinct varietal grape that actually produces bigger, juicier wines that can extract huge tannins and color, if the winemaker wishes. Generally speaking, PS are bigger than Syrah. An oddity is that the grape is named Durif (discoverer Dr. Francois Durif) worldwide, with the exception of North and South America, where is called Petit Sirah.
It is instructive when reading PS reviews, that the wine snobs treat them like wolves on a sheep farm. For example, Gayot’s highest-rated PS, the 2006 Sculpterra, got a 14/20 score. The highest by Wine Experience were several in the 90s, most of which were priced $50 and up. Bogle 2012 managed an 89-point score, but get this, my friends, you can buy a case priced under $120 with ease. In the glass dark purple-black with red rim; a bouquet of blackberry and blueberry with oak-driven spice hints; a mouthful of mocha, caramel, toasted oak with tannins and acid to support. The finish is firm, clean and long, with leather, vanilla and caramel. Lends itself to grilled or roast lamb and beef. Big-buck buckaroos can pay up for a Turley Hayne Vineyard 2003, close to $80 now. Sadly, it came on at $120/bottle in 2007 (95 points) and has lost ground since. Drinking beautifully. Only buy for your enjoyment, not for resale. Another noteworthy Bogle selection is Phantom. The 2012 are a blend of PS, Zin, Cab and Mourvedre. Dark, ruby-colored, opens with cherries and black pepper.
On the palate, blackberry, blueberry and juniper notes. Two years in oak add coconut and vanillin, all riding a tannin/acid frame that supports without overwhelming the palate. Where most Bogle productions run under $10 and they have a complete range of varietal wine, Phantom will set you back $18-20. These consistently rate in the 88-89-point range, but I insist that is only because most writers refuse to award higher, due to prejudices. McD says 91 points with 2 price points.
Duckhorn gained fame when its 3 Palms Merlot was the wine to order in tony U.S. restaurants. They were allocated and tough to acquire. Many claim Dan Duckhorn and Sterling Vineyard winemaker Ric Forman’s initial attempts, producing wine similar to right bank wineries found in St. Emilion and Pomerol, Bordeaux, was the raving success and drove the phenomenon. Reviewers, especially WE writers, love the wine, rating it 93 points and higher in each vintage since 2005. We were able to sample the 2012, which was released in August.
Approachable now, but time will help. Lovely, dark garnet color with red fruit, caramel, spice aromas (allspice) and herbal aromas, it opens on the palate with cherries, strawberries and hints of cedar, dark chocolate, toasted oak and barrel spice. At $85-$90, I’m not a buyer, but the wine should score in the low 90s, and its small production will keep prices high. If you are in this market, take a look at Chateau Clinet 2011, $90, rated 95 by RP and 93 by WS and WE. Window opens next year and will cellar through at least 2030. I’ve sampled these several times. Even at 93-95 points, it is underrated. Deep purple with an extravagant bouquet of black cherry, blueberry, truffle, chocolate and spice box aromas. On the palate, concentrated with more cherries, chocolate and dark berries. Wine for sybarites.
I am buying the Duckhorn Napa Sauvignon Blanc 2013, a 90-point wine, but I prefer the 2010 under $30. Smart shoppers would buy 2013 Decoy Sonoma County, Duckhorn’s second label, under $15. Cold fermented in stainless, the 2013 has tropical fruit aromas with hints of citrus. It is smooth with high acidity balanced by peach and melon flavors with a clean grapefruit finish. This week I’m off to NJ for Gary’s charity tasting.
