Bright Lights Chard – a versatile vegetable that deserves to shine

There were so many beautiful bunches of chard at the Historic Lewes Farmers Market last week. Both Wednesday and Saturday, vendors had colorful stalks arrayed in their booths. Often called by their varietal names – Swiss Chard (white stems), Bright Lights and Rainbow (colored stems) – the bunch in the photo is one of the latter, notable for the distinctive colors ranging from pale celadon to soft orange to brilliant ruby.

Chard, in the same botanical family as spinach and sugar beets, features curly, fan-like leaves on a fleshy stalk. Chard is slightly bitter (like beet greens) and almost salty (like spinach) with June through August as its prime season. When shopping, select plump bunches with glossy leaves and no signs of wilting or browning. They should keep well in the refrigerator for a few days.

Most recipes for chard include steps for cutting the tougher stems from the tender leaves and stripping the green leaves from the colorful veins. The stalks are typically chopped and cooked for a longer time than the leaves, which only need to be wilted if you’re making a sautéed side dish. You can also shred the raw leaves and toss them into a salad.

There are countless flavors to add to chard dishes, from caraway to harissa, from Balsamic to cardamom. The easiest way to prepare chard is stovetop in a skillet. If you have your ingredients prepped, the dish comes together very quickly. Don’t be alarmed when you add the chard and the skillet seems overwhelmed, as it will cook down to a slim percentage of its original, leafy size.

These simple braised chard recipes feature the clean, bright flavor of chard without much fuss. Balsamic vinegar and toasted pine nuts add hints of sweetness and lovely crunch, respectively. Another variation on braised chard includes the addition of caraway seeds and a dollop of honey for a similar effect. The final recipe comes from the book “Falastin” by Sami Tamimi and Tara Wigley.

Tamimi is also the co-author of “Jerusalem” and Wigley co-authored “Ottolenghi Simple,” both with renowned chef Yotam Ottolenghi, who runs several restaurants in London, one of which has earned a Michelin star. “Falastin,” although not written by him, has his fingerprints in the fresh, local ingredients and deep respect for the culinary traditions of the region being showcased.

This cookbook opens with an essay about the people of Palestine and the authors’ objective for the collection: to provide a contemporary look at traditional dishes. The opening chapter offers a selection of breakfast foods, including eggs with za’tar and cardamom-scented, tahini-date-syrup-drizzled yogurt and fruit.

I was intrigued by the two recipes for Shakshuka, well-seasoned, skillet-steamed vegetables used as a base to poach eggs, not unlike the huevos rancheros of Mexican cuisine. I’ve included the version of the dish that includes leeks, chard, green onion and the signature flavor of green harissa. The combination of vegetables and seasonings was the perfect companion to the creamy egg. No matter how you prepare chard, you’ll be serving a nutritional powerhouse of vitamins, minerals and fiber.

Braised Chard

1/4 C pine nuts

1 lb Swiss chard

2 T olive oil

3 sliced garlic cloves

1/4 C chopped green onions

juice of 1/2 lemon

salt and pepper, to taste

2 T Balsamic vinegar

Add the nuts to a dry skillet and toast over medium until golden and fragrant, shaking the pan often to precent burning; set aside. Rinse the chard and cut the leaves from the stalks. Chop the stems into 1/2-inch pieces; set aside. Strip the thick veins from the leaves and discard; loosely chop the leaves and set aside. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add chard stem pieces and stir to coat with oil. Toss in garlic, green onions and lemon juice. Cover and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the chard leaves and Balsamic; cover and cook until wilted, about 3 minutes. Sprinkle with toasted pine nuts and season to taste with salt and pepper. Yield: 2 to 4 servings.

Braised Chard

3 T olive oil

2 white onions

1/2 t salt

1 lb chard

1 T honey

1 t caraway seeds

1/4 t celery seed

1/2 t white pepper

2 t rice wine vinegar

Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium. Slice onions into 1/4-inch-wide pieces. Add onions and cook, stirring often, until softened and golden; sprinkle with salt. Trim away stalks and center ribs from chard; retain for another use. Roughly chop the leaves and add to the skillet. Use a spatula to combine onions and chard; cook until wilted, about 3 minutes. Add remaining ingredients and cook another 2 minutes. Yield: 2 to 4 servings.

Shakshuka*

1 1/2 t olive oil

1 t green harissa

1 leek

1 lb chard

1 T butter

2 T olive oil

4 sliced green onions

1 t chopped green chile

1 minced garlic clove

3/4 t cumin

3/4 t coriander

1 C chopped parsley

1/2 C chopped dill

1/2 t salt

1/3 C water

1 T lemon juice

4 eggs

salt & pepper

Combine 1 1/2 t olive oil and harissa in a small bowl; set aside. Prep leeks: cut into quarters lengthwise and slice into 1/2-inch pieces; set aside. Prep chard: cut the stalks from the chard and chop into 1/2-inch pieces; strip the leaves from the stems and discard veins; roughly chop the leaves; set aside. Heat butter and olive oil in a large skillet. Add leek, cover and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add chard stem pieces and green onion; cover and cook another 5 minutes, shaking the skillet occasionally. Add chile, garlic and spices; cook for 2 minutes. Add chard leaves, parsley, dill, salt and water; cover and cook until completely wilted, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle with lemon juice and use the back of a spoon to make 4 wells in the vegetable mixture. Crack an egg into each well, sprinkle each with salt and pepper; cover and cook until whites are set and yolks are runny. Dot the eggs with harissa mixture to serve. Yield: 2 servings. *Adapted from “Falastin” by Sami Tamimi and Tara Wigley.