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Celebrate the holidays with affordable bubbly

Watch out for possible tariffs on European imports
December 23, 2019

Since this will appear as the holiday weeks begin for so many, I’ll just write Happy Holidays. Many enjoy bubbly to celebrate the new year. This week’s column will be mostly about those that can be found locally. Let’s start with some that are top flight and affordable. Mionetto Prosecco Brut NV will run you about $12, or $22 for 1.5L. It rates 88 McD points with citrus, white stone fruit, dried herbs, nuance of white pepper plus lovely bead and firm acidity.

If you wish to go upscale, look for their Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG around $20. Label may read Prestige Collection. Pale-yellow color, persistent tiny perlage, with floral bouquet and pronounced aromas of apple, pear and hint of citrus. Valdo Prosecco Brut NV is another 88 at $14. Straw-colored, with fine perlage. Balanced structure supports fruit aromas. Serve at 45 degrees to promote the lovely nose. Don’t go to their Marco Doro DOCG; nice wine, poor value.

For those who enjoy a less-dry sparkler, check out Zardetto Molin Extra Dry PVSD, priced around $19. Straw-yellow, tropical nose of lychee and wildflowers, evolves to fruit palate, bright acidity and a clean, citrussy, grapefruit finish. Keep in mind the sweetness chart on sparklers goes Brut Nature, ½ gram sugar/liter; Extra Brut, 1 g/L; Brut, 2 g/L; Extra Dry, 2.8 g/L; Dry, 5.3 g/L; and Doux, 8.3g/L. In other words, extra dry has about 29 percent more sugar per liter than Brut. 

That $9 bottle of Segura Viudas Cava Brut Rosé NV from Catalonia should not be overlooked. Too many shun or underrate the sparklers priced under $10. This is pale strawberry-colored with salmon reflections, creamy mousse, aromas of strawberries, red currant and a cherry palate supported by proper acidity. It finishes smoothly, creamy and clean, 87 points but add 2 price points. Their Brut NV also runs under $10 and rates 90 McD without price points. A truly great bargain.

I don’t get it that so many of our domestic producers can’t perform at these price points. So far in my travels, only Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut NV from Washington has struck the acceptance/value chord. When I recommend a sparkler under $10, it is usually a Cava or Prosecco. Good choices in the $10 to $20 range include Gloria Ferrer Brut, Piper Sonoma Brut NV Carneros and Gruet from New Mexico, both Blanc de Noirs, and Treveri Brut Blanc de Blancs from Washington. It is rare to find a Blanc de Blancs (made of 100 percent Chardonnay) at Treveri’s price point.

Once we hit $20-$30, domestics start to shine. Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut, Domaine Carneros Brut and Schramsberg Mirabelle Brut Rosé lead the charge. I’ve recently written up all three. Some recommend Barefoot Bubbly, but a case of 24 splits (187ml bottles) would set you back about $65, McD 84; it doesn’t reach my value level. I took a look at Rachael Ray’s bubbly recommendations. I was surprised such a noted cook made the choices. The only selection from her list that I would recommend is Freixenet Cava Carta Nevada Semi Dry. I don’t even know what “semi dry” means. The only Freixenet I’ve written of is their Elyssia Gran Cuvee, 90 points McD. At $21 you can do better.

Looking for an affordable French Champagne? Nicolas Feuillatte Brut NV makes it at $29.99, 90 McD. Pale, creamy effervescence, dried fruit, nuts, and Christmas spice aromas with lemon, quince and honey flavors supported by citrus acidity.

Don’t wish to be a Grinch, but this needs to be mentioned. It is possible the U.S. will place tariffs on European wine fairly soon. Those who buy Euroland wine that is pricey may wish to lay in the favorites you can afford to cellar. Don Kavanagh wrote about this issue Dec. 11; it is possible the tariffs will be 100 percent. To find the article, search “Don Kavanagh tariff hikes.” 

Let me close by wishing all those reading a happy, blessed, peaceful, family holiday season. Happy Chanukah! Merry Christmas! And Quality Kwanzaa!

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