Cognac, Armagnac have special rules
Try to read “From Jailer to Jailed” by Bernie Kerik, an interesting look at the policing establishment and our penal system by the consummate insider, who was convicted on eight charges and jailed in a “country club” facility in Cumberland, Md. One takeaway was that Kerik was clueless, over a 30-year career in law enforcement, where he rose to the highest level as NYC police commissioner, as to the true damage the system inflicts on society. Although Kerik acknowledges his guilt, he also praises himself for his career success. A strangely crafted book, but well worth reading. It should be required reading for all in law enforcement, the penal system and particularly the judiciary and government representatives.
Our penal system is long overdue for reform, and Kerik draws a fine blueprint.
While reading the Kerik book, I calmed my “I knew that” attitude with several sips of delicious wine. Started with Bodegas La Val Albarino 2014, a lovely hot-weather sipper from Spain. Just $12 buys a very pale-green wine that opens to herbs, mountain laurel, lemon, peach and floral nose. On the palate, delicious fruit is balanced by citrus acidity and mineral notes. Lovely, long, clean, balanced finish. Classic Albarino that rates 90 points.
Chateau du Cedre Cedrus le Blanc 2014 caught my eye while I was shopping. I had never sampled this wine from Gascogne, France, a region better known for Armagnac. It’s blended of Columbard and Ugni Blanc, two varietal wines associated primarily with the production of brandy in the Armagnac and Cognac regions. Keep in mind that all Cognac and Armagnac are brandies, but only brandies from those regions that follow specific guidelines can be named Cognac or Armagnac. Cedrus le Blanc resembles a Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. Green-tinged, golden-colored, the nose was white flowers and Asian fruit, palate supported fruit with clean acidity, good seafood wine; 87 points, $12.
Regarding Cognac, it must be produced from grapes grown in Cognac, and contain Folle blanche, Ugni Blanc and/or Columbard. The wine is fermented and distilled. It must be aged a minimum 3 years. However, 3-year-old Cognac (VS, Very Superior) is pretty rough. VSOP, Very Superior Old Pale or “Napoleon” must be aged 6 1/2 years minimum, and XO may be aged for decades. I find Armagnac to be generally superior to Cognac and it is less expensive.
Same grape types must be used, aged in oak casks of regional Montezun black oak. Armagnac is distilled twice, Cognac only once. I think the extra distillation provides more finesse. Armagnac is blended, and the age on the bottle denotes the youngest eau de vie used. If you wish to try the best Armagnac, look for “Hors D’Age” which declares the minimum age used in the blend is 10-year Armagnac. In both cases the expense is generally driven by time, value of money and evaporation (depletion). If you visit the production areas you may catch a free buzz just from breathing.
Buy Larressingle VSOP or XO to start. If you enjoy them, move up to the Hors d’Age. To smell brandies and various spirits best, try dipping your finger into the glass then rubbing the liquor on the back of your hand, much as you would with perfume. With Larressingle Hors D’Age look for candied fruit, apricot and orange peel with oak backlights. On the palate pastries, spices, rancio and more dried fruit.
Rancio is the wine name for the nutlike flavor often found in fortified wines. In Cognac, Rancio Charentais is the term used, and it is very well described here: http://blog.cognac- expert.com/the-rancio-charentais-what-does-this-cognac-term-mean/.
The Chapoutier Domaine de Bila Haut Occultum Lapidem Cotes de Roussillon 2013, which I wrote of recently, just got a big fat “incredible effort” 94-97 points from Jeb Dunnock in Wine Advocate. Hold off on buying if price is more than $24. I rated it a buy 92 and reaffirm that call under $24.
Finally, happy Father’s Day! If you have ‘groan’ children, don’t share the Hors d’Age. Save it for the good children who stop by to visit and are gradually replacing all that quality wine they and their pals drained from your underprotected cellar back in the day.
Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
