Don’t miss the flavor of local peaches in season

Peaches, with their fuzz-covered skin and sturdy pit, may seem tough, but they are among the most delicate of our summer fruits. Because they’re so prone to damage and decay, peaches have a very brief lifespan. From the time they’re picked until they begin to rot, the fruit will last barely two weeks. There are a few things that large-scale commercial peach growers do to extend this.

Before their peaches reach the conveyor belt for packing, the just-picked fruit is submerged in an ice-water bath to halt the ripening process. Many processors remove most of the fuzz when the peaches are sorted and culled, supposedly in response to consumer taste. And, peaches offered for sale at large grocery chains are typically kept chilled to slow their ripening.

The peaches you find at farmers markets and roadside stands will appear far softer and fuzzier in comparison to these, simply because they are not “processed.” To begin, they’re treated gently as they’re picked by hand and they’re allowed to keep their signature fuzz. What we call peach fuzz, botanists refer to as “trichome indumentum,” which translates to “little hairs covering the skin.”

These tiny hairs on the surface of the peach are an excellent defense mechanism. First, some insects find these hairs irritating, preventing them from damaging the peach by nibbling the skin or laying their eggs. The fuzz is also a protective barrier from moisture, repelling dampness that could invite bacteria and start decay.

If you prefer the flavor of peaches but could do without the fuzz, you can try a smooth-skinned nectarine. Its skin doesn’t have an extra layer of hair; instead, it is very glossy and smooth. This slick surface provides similar protection with a different approach, causing water to swiftly glide off the skin. What you plan to make with the fruit will determine whether you leave the skin on or remove it.

For example, in the puff pastry tarts in the photo, the slices were quite thin, so the skin wouldn’t be an issue and it also lent a nice color. These tarts are easy to assemble and can be made a few different ways. For these, I spread a layer of lightly sweetened cream cheese before arranging the peaches.

Alternatively, you can soak the peach slices in lemon juice and layer them directly on the puff pastry. I flavored the cream cheese with almond extract, but vanilla would work just as well. And, you can cut the single sheet of puff pastry into squares, circles or triangles, or leave it as a large rectangle.

In order to get the most flakiness out of your pastry, turn up the edges a bit. For some of mine, there was too much cream cheese to allow them to puff up. You can also toss on blueberries or layer peaches with nectarines. You can dust them with brown sugar before they’re baked or sprinkle them with confectioners sugar just as they’re served.

For a contrast to the creamy peach tarts, you may want to try the sweet and spicy salad of peaches and cucumbers. With a simple dressing of lime juice and a slight punch from hot sauce, this is a summery combination of sweet, salt, sharp and crisp. With only a few more weeks left in our local peach season, be sure to get those fuzzy beauties while you can.

Peach Puff Pastry Tarts*

1 frozen puff pastry sheet, thawed
8 oz softened cream cheese
1/4 C confectioners sugar
1 t almond extract
3 thinly sliced peaches
2 T brown sugar (optional)

Preheat oven to 400 F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat (silpat). Unfold the pastry sheet and cut into nine squares. Arrange the squares in a single layer on the baking sheet; set aside. In a small bowl, whisk together cream cheese, confectioners sugar and almond extract until smooth. Spread about 1 T of cream cheese mixture evenly over each pastry square, trying to avoid the edges. Arrange 3 to 5 peach slices slightly overlapping in each square. Sprinkle with brown sugar (optional) and bake until puffed and golden, about 30 minutes. Yield: 9 squares. *Note: you can cut the pastry into other shapes or leave the rectangle intact; substitute vanilla for the almond extract, if desired

Peach & Cucumber Salad

1 English cucumber
2 ripe peaches
juice of 1 lime
1/4 t lime zest
pinch of sea salt
3 drops Tabasco
1 T shredded cilantro

Thinly slice the cucumber into a serving bowl. Halve, pit and slice the peaches into thin wedges; add to the bowl. Add lime juice and zest, salt and Tabasco. Toss gently to combine. Garnish with cilantro. Yield: 4 servings.