Earning Master of Wine status is rare

OPP, not the hip hop but the Mouton Noir Other People Pinot, is a delightful Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley in Oregon. I was initially attracted to these folks when I sampled the 2010 due to the label, Mouton Noir Oregogne Garage D’Or, and it turned out to be a nice 88-point PN but a bit pricey at $40. The 2013s are $177/case and a great QPR for those who enjoy PN with cherry, ginger and earth profile. Mouton Noir, for non-Francophiles, means black sheep, but it was Garage D’Or that caught my fancy due to the garage wine industry so in vogue today. Word play makes my mouth water. The marketing T-shirt for the label reads, “Kick Ass garage wines from Oregogne.”

Here’s what it takes to earn an Institute of Masters of Wine certification. To the best of my knowledge, only 312 people have achieved Master of Wine status. Roughly three years of self-directed study are required. The exam includes a blind tasting, four papers on theory, and one 10,000-word research paper. Are you up for the challenge? If you aren’t but you wish to enhance your knowledge you may want to look into Wine and Spirit Education Trust. While I think both have great merit, for most of us, the best and by far most enjoyable tool is attendance at grand tastings and competitions where the opportunity to consume large quantities of diverse selections for valuable prices will open most doors fastest. For my money, learning the profiles I enjoy while keeping an open mind to new wine horizons is critical to enjoying wine.

This factoid should boggle your minds; I read of it in Terre de Vins when the Je suis Charlie slogan was being discussed. Serving wine on a live TV show would hardly be shocking in most countries of the Western world, but in France it is forbidden. The Loi Evin, introduced in 1991, expressly forbids advertisement or promotion of alcohol on television. The same laws forbid tobacco and pornography ads. Je suis le vigne et tobac.

For those who enjoy Graves Blancs, the Chateau Carbonnieux Blanc Pessac Leognan 2012s were well received and all the famous critics waxed eloquent. We held our fire and I’m happy to write the 2013s were even better. The same likely suspects went wild, awarding 94s and 93s right and left. RP wrote “large, stunning Pessac Leognan,” and Roger Voss drooled “impressive, rich, worth waiting for.” Tanzer clinched it for me with a very nice 91, which is a 94 in WE or WS speak. These won’t be ready until 2018, and it is rare to see white Graves prices escalate. The 2007s are still selling under $40/bottle so hold your fire but keep them on your things-to-do list.

Roland asked about Chateau Puygueraud Cuvee George CdF 2006. The Cuvee George are lovely examples of Cote de Francs wines. I actually sampled one in February 2010, priced at $22. I was set to write them up when some favorable ink and an award spiked the price to $32, obviating the bargain. My notes read: Dark garnet with violet, olive, coffee, leather, pepper and cedar aromas picked up by a sufficient acid/tannin frame supporting coffee, licorice, tobacco and leather flavors. A bit short in the finish but a worthy buy priced around $20, 91 points. Drink it soon, Roland.

Chateau Gruaud Larose 2010 came on at $85 and has run up to $100 because many were awarding mid-90s scores and it will be ready in 2018-40. I asked you to wait, and here’s the deal. Right now you can buy a case of 2001 for $1,050, ready 2012-30. Robinson and Tanzer scored them the same as the 2010 back in 2007.

I loved this wonderful St. Julien for its true cassis and floral nose, and the plum and cherry flavors. This wine turned out better than I expected and is a definite buy under $95 for Bordeaux lovers with a cellar. It is aged to perfection. Current McD 95 points.