Even pricy wine can sometimes be a good buy

I rarely lead with pricy wine, but the 2014 Chateau Pontet-Canet Pauillac Bordeaux, $150 at Swigg in Wilmington, 96 McD, is just on the crest of opening its window and will go to 2030 with ease. Still dark ruby-colored, redolent of blackberry, cherry, floral and herbs with licorice and leather hints, it evolves on the dense, nearly unctuous palate which is saved by fruit and well-balanced acid/tannin frame. The fruit aromas carried through to the palate with some barrel toast and chocolate. Long finish with tannins mostly incorporated. Drinking well now, but a few more years’ age will continue improving it. Reminds me of the 2009, which is now selling mid-$300s and has plenty of shelf life left. Those with good memory may remember I touted us off most prestigious 2009 Pauillac because famous winos were so ebullient about its prospects. It came on north of $300, nearly double surrounding vintages’ pricing, and I saw no appreciation. The eagles screamed “Best ever, ever, ever,” and prices were driven through the roof. Wonderful wine, poor value. The 2016, $172, 99 points and the 2018, $190, 97 McD, were stellar also. They need several years. Based on recent markets and the possibility of worldwide recession, I’m advising a pause in buying for cellarers who buy for consumption or as a business proposition, unless you are shopping very low-production, superstar wines. The 5th Cru Chateau Pontet-Canet Pauillac Bordeaux are so well done, I had to send a shout-out. We sampled from 1.5L bottles; prices quoted are 750 ml. Regulars know 1.5s take longer to mature; they are normally held back for a few years by producers for aging and then need another few in the cellar. These were rated by most experts from 97-99 points. With the exception of a few, these high-rated stars invariably gain in value as they approach maturity. 

I want to pause to acknowledge Peggy Raley and the Nassau Valley Vineyards family and staff plus the crew at Windsor’s Florist for helping ensure Marguerite’s party went off as planned. Due to C-19 complications and lack of ability to assemble large gatherings, she had a small marriage followed by a first-anniversary wedding. All involved did a fine job. 

Want to be adventurous? Search for Donnafugata Lighea Zibibbo Sicilia 2020. Bright straw-colored, fragrant bouquet of orange blossom, trop fruit with hints of citrus, cedar and bergamot (aka Monarda/beebalm, has pretty lavender, pink or white flowers, loves damp places, mild mint aroma, can grow to 4-5 feet). Aromas repeat on a bright mineral frame. Long, clean finish. Most recent vintages 88-89 McD, $21, drinks well, fresh but will keep five years or less. Goes great with bluefish and mackerel. Another nice Sicilian white, Tenuta Rapitala Viviri, 100% Grillo, makes it though the screen at 87 due to 1 price point; $13 and it goes well with our wonderful fresh local flounder or monkfish. Lightly aromatic of stone fruit, nut and hawthorn. On the palate, nectarine (from Delmarva, not those Cali imports), apricot, and hints of butter and bitter almond supported with mild saline acidity. Try sautéing the fish, flip-flop hot, in clarified butter, using the wine in place of lemon.

We ended the weekend watching the D.C. and Boston Pops, Macy’s fireworks and festivities. For me, Pops had best music and NYC the most spectacular, long fireworks display. I must admit, though, that the backdrops in DC were more patriotic than the NYC skyline. All were wonderful entertainment, and we could even walk outside to watch the local displays. America is indeed the beautiful. Somehow, dogs and beer don’t get it for me. But at least the wine was domestic and local. We put a dent in the residuals from Marguerite’s wedding that she had entrusted us to care for. Sorry, Davis family, sometimes even your best pals can’t be trusted.