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Wine

A few more sparklers for holiday toasts

December 29, 2014

Hope your holiday season is going along well. I’m writing this on Monday and I can assure all that the McDs are looking forward to Christmas with joy in our hearts. Fortunately my family will be gathered around thanking God for his blessings, wassailing, feasting and as my children name it, “chillin.”

I decided to write up a few last recommendations for last-minute shoppers for New Year’s Eve toasts and beefeaters, which can be found locally. Just yesterday I found a great deal on Pol Roger (Roe-gjay) Brut NV at $22/bottle. Pol Roger is an excellent aperitif and goes particularly well with oysters, caviar and/or shrimp.

Another is Roederer Estate L’Hermitage 2006 from California. It was named as one of the best California sparklers and awarded 97 points by WE and 93 by WS. This seems a bit pricey at $40, until you realize the 2006 are the current release. These wines are handled like the best Champagne cuvees and are left on lees, then aged to perfection. Beautiful, long-lasting bead announces a pleasing bouquet of toast, ginger and cherries. Served crackling cold, the acidity is spot on and supports lemon and ginger flavors through a clean finish. I enjoyed this with lobster bisque, but it will enhance any cream sauce dish, except oysters Rockefeller

J. Brut Cuvee 20 Russian River NV is priced right at $26. Another Cali sparkler that won’t break the bank gets 92 McD points. A fine beaded mousse leads the way to citrus, with lees-driven almond and brioche aromas highlighted by orange zest. On the creamy palate, green apples and minerals prevail with citrus and vanilla highlights. Clean, long finish with sweet brioche notes.

Domaine Carneros Brut Rose Cuvee de la Pompador by Taittinger (tayt-en jay). This Napa sparkler has active bead in a pale salmon color; it opens to a very complex nose of rose petal and strawberries undergirded by bread dough and earthy notes. The mid palate shows more berries with some peach riding a creamy body with acid backbone. As it stood, I thought I detected some apricot, orange zest and brioche through the clean denouement, 92 points. A case would run $450.

As an intermezzo, let me recommend “Food: A Love Story” by Jim Gaffigan. Here’s an excerpt on wine in restaurants, slightly edited. “A feeling of anxiety always comes over me when I’m asked to taste a newly opened bottle of wine. All confidence seems to evaporate as I take a sample sip. What does good wine taste like? How about bad?

“I usually just look at the waiter and say, ‘Yeah, that’s wine all right. Fill ‘er up.’” On sushi, he writes, “I am an avid ketchup user. Jeanie thinks I use too much, especially on my sushi, but I find it drowns out the fish flavor.” Regarding British fare: “How bad is your food when adding vinegar is an improvement?” Of course, Gaffigan’s delivery and setup lines are much better than these abbreviated by me, but you get the drift.

You can find Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre Syrah 2007 at the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board for $25. Your local wine guy can get it for you probably under $30. Rated 95 points for those who love Syrah. It is still opaque, black-purple-colored.

The nose has aromas of smoked meat, berries and violets but it is on the palate that this wine comes alive. Tons of berries and plums are layered with pepper, graphite slate-like minerals and coffee. These are framed by full but soft tannins, some oak and a finely balanced acidity. The flavors repeat through the finish leaving behind some dark chocolate and earth notes. Try this with roast beef, popovers and brussels sprouts for a wonderful holiday meal.

Let me close by wishing all a very happy, healthy, prosperous, fulfilling new year.

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