Find Valdo for a pleasant surprise
I’m not a big fan of Mr. Obama’s policies. After reading an article on the Obama wine cellar and service, then sampling the wines chosen, I am even less so. Following are examples. The menu served French President Hollande included American Osetra caviar from Illinois river estuaries, of all places, with quail eggs and potato velouté, a salad course, dry-aged beef with bleu cheese and charred veggies, and a chocolate malted ganache cake with ice cream and tangerines. A very aggressive menu, difficult to wine pair. According to the WH release, Mrs. Obama directed the menu and advised the sommelier on wine selection. Some of the veggies came from her garden.
The first-course wine, Morlet La Proportion Doree 2011, a Sonoma blend of Semillon, SB and Muscadelle, which resembles Graves, was rated 95 points by RP. Morlet himself claimed it was unready to drink and was pouring the 2006 at a WineFashionista tasting in March 2014. I think 93 points and a decent value under $68. Odd choice for Osetra, but it worked as well as an immature wine can with Sacramento River Osetra. At first blush, Long Shadows Chester Kidder Red Blend 2009 may have complemented the strong flavors of dry-aged beef and bleu cheese. However, when I tried this Walla Walla, Washington blend, 90 points, $50, I found a big, oaky, tannic, smoky, char and toast wine, with subdued fruit. Definitely not food friendly. Tannin and oak to fruit and color suggest maybe never. Last but not least was Thibaut-Janisson Blanc de Chardonnay from Monticello, Va. This is a lovely American sparkler, 88 points. Wine Berserker wrote it up large. I did not try it with chocolate malt cake but bought some malt balls, written pen in cheek. Did not find the profile appealing in the malt balls or the wine combo. We served it with rockfish and everyone raved. Very close to champagne with lovely mousse. It’s 100 percent Chardonnay, bright, pale lemon-colored, mineral and muted oak attack, baked apple and bread flavors with very clean finish and great bead persistence. Maybe one of you Obama-ites who tries this with chocolate malt cake (also goes well with Kool-Aid) will email me with the results.
Where’s Valdo? I sampled a bargain Prosecco Brut from Valdo; serve it at the suggested 44 degrees F. Pale yellow with pear, yellow delicious apple and floral aromas, with hints of yeast. The palate reveals a nice pear with a hint of apple flavor. The mid-palate shows some yeast riding a crisp, acid frame, which carries into the finish along with pear and mineral flavors. The residual sugar at 12g/L. is just slightly below the threshold that would name Valdo an extra dry. I enjoy that profile. A lot of wine for the buck, $14, 88 points.
Those who bought into my raves when Christian Moueix moved into Dominus, then suffered the pain of RP ratcheting up the price to no value will be happy to learn that the 2005s I recommended at $92, when Tanzer gave them 94 points in the face of 89s and 90s from WS, RP, etc. are true winners and have appreciated to $163 and rising. I was at a recent vertical from 2000-09. My notes: 2005, dark color. Loaded up with cherries, black currants, violets and fresh mint. Dense fruit, lots of tannin, great minerality and earth on the palate. Beautiful balance. Pure fruit, long finish, another few years will help. 2007 peaking out early, price trending down. 2008s slightly bitter, 2009 Tanzer gave 95. Opened at $200, spiked to $240, backslid to $186. Going through a dumb period. After nearly an hour started to open up. Mineral-driven, grassy and floral scents. Berry, cherries, plums, black currants, grassy, floral and mineral nose. On the palate, Cabernet, wet earth, cedar, violets and vanilla. Long, pure finish. Leave in cellar; keep mitts off. This is a stone winner. Second label Napanook 2010, $50, a real bargain stunner. This is a no-brainer. Case 93-point Napanook $560. Two bottles Dominus, 95 points, $499.
