Fondue is back

Last weekend we celebrated Christmas (very belatedly) with our friends Andy and Lucille. Part of the fun was trying to remember what items were in the packages we’d wrapped months ago. Of course, the other enjoyable part was the unwrapping. Their gift to us was something we’d never seen before - an electric fondue pot.

For those of you who didn’t live through the fondue craze of the 1970s, a quick tutorial might be in order. Pronounced fahn-DOO, this melted cheese dish has its origins in the Swiss canton of Neuchatel. The traditional recipe includes two types of cheese, Gruyere and Emmenthaler, which combine to create a flavor that is neither too bland nor too sharp.

To prepare fondue, the interior of the pot (called a caquelon) is rubbed with the cut side of a garlic clove. A generous pour of dry white wine is set over a flame to simmer while the cheese is grated and tossed with cornstarch. Once the wine is bubbling in the pot, cheese is added a handful at a time and melted into a creamy consistency and amazing flavor.

Over the years we’d owned variations on the traditional fondue pot, a small enamel saucepan with a long handle, designed to sit over a can of sterno. Because the heat source wasn’t quite strong enough to boil the wine and melt the cheese, you would need to assemble the fondue on the stove top and then transfer it to the fondue pot for serving.

Our new electric fondue pot solves the two-step cooking problem with precise temperature controls. The dial is set on high to quickly heat the wine, then turned to medium while the cheese melts. Once the fondue has reached the proper serving consistency, the dial is set to low.

Cheese fondue is traditionally served with small bread cubes for dipping. Long-handled fondue forks with sharp prongs or trident-shaped spears hold a bread cube as it’s swirled through the cheese. Typical challenges include keeping the bread on the fork and managing the dangling strands of cheese between your fork and the pot.

The tips and hints in the booklet packed in the box with our new toy featured a few worth sharing. First, make sure any wine or beer selected as ingredients in your fondue are the same quality you would serve as a beverage. It’s worth the extra expense for the superior flavor.

I didn’t agree with their admonition against using Chardonnay, but only Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio. Although some Chardonnays can be too “oaky” or have too much vanilla flavor, a good bottle would be just fine in a cheese fondue.

Another suggestion was to blanch vegetables you’re planning to serve for dipping. This worked well for the fondue in the photo; not only were the broccoli and asparagus more tender, the blanching brightened their green color.

Their etiquette tips advised not “double dipping” with your fondue fork, but removing the cheese-covered morsel from your fork to a plate, as well as providing your fellow diners with eating forks and napkins. Of course, since this was a Cuisinart product, you’re instructed to deploy a Cuisinart hand blender to rescue a fondue that “breaks” or separates.

I’ve included a couple of the recipes from the booklet: the cheese fondue in the picture (it was delicious) and a chocolate hazelnut fondue that would be the perfect dessert after a barbecue dinner on the porch. Merry Christmas, indeed!

Classic Cheese Fondue*

7 oz Gruyere cheese
6 oz Emmenthaler cheese
1 T cornstarch
1 t dry mustard
1 garlic clove
1 1/3 C dry white wine

Grate the cheese into a large bowl. Sprinkle with mustard and cornstarch; toss to combine and set aside. Rub the inside of the fondue pot with the cut side of the garlic clove; discard. Pour the wine into the fondue pot and set heat to level 5. If preparing on the stove, set heat to medium-high. When wine begins to bubble, add cheese a handful at a time, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or spatula. Once all the cheese has been added and the mixture is thickened, reduce heat to level 3 (or transfer to fondue pot over lit sterno). Serve with crusty bread cubes or crisp-tender vegetables cut into bite-sized pieces. Yield: 4 servings. *Adapted from Cuisinart.

Chocolate Hazelnut Fondue*

3/4 C half & half
1/2 C heavy cream
3/4 lb semisweet chocolate
2 T Frangelico liqueur
2 T toasted hazelnuts

Finely chop the chocolate; set aside. Toast the hazelnuts in a dry skillet until fragrant. Chop nuts and set aside. Pour half & half and cream into the fondue pot and set heat to level 4 1/2. Heat until cream begins to bubble slightly. Reduce heat to level 3 1/2 and begin adding the chocolate 1/2 C at a time, stirring constantly. When chocolate is completely melted, whisk in Frangelico. Reduce heat to 3 and sprinkle with toasted hazelnuts. Serve with cubes of pound cake, blackberries, strawberries, dried apricots and marshmallows. Yield: 4 servings. *Adapted from Cuisinart.