Forget about nouveau, try the older Beaujolais wines

How many of you have turned off the news? Regardless which side of the aisle you abide, the recent hubbub is beyond the pale and for me beyond belief. Drives a man to drink! To be fair, in my case, a very small goad is needed. Lots to cover this week. Jamey asked about older Beaujolais. He wrote, “I thought it was all about November Nouveau. Recently, one of my critics was touting some vintage product. What’s up, John?” The short story for me is that November nuttiness surrounding Nouveau Beaujolais stems from folks vying to be in front to sample the first release from Burgundy.

I think that is a fun exercise, but unlike Steve Martin, I don’t want some of the new wine. Like your critic, I prefer the older stuff. There are 10 Cru Beaujolais. My favorites in most vintages for aging are Moulin a Vent and Morgon. You can usually buy them around $25. To learn more, go to vinepair.com and search for Beaujolais personality map. You will find that any of the listed Cru Beaujolais will easily age several years.

The Nouveau is usually just a huge fruit bomb, light in body, and fun. The MD2020 of the jet set. Always remember about opinions - everybody has one. 

On Fattoria Felsina Berardenga Fontalloro 2013, I recommended hold fire, and it is back down to a reasonable price after the surge caused by critic Monica Larner’s 96 and Suckling’s 95-point laud were driving buyers. Larner was on the money with her description, but the price pop was unwarranted. I thought the ratings by WS and Galloni were more accurate at around 93 points. In the end, these are only very well-made Sangiovese (Chianti) from a terrific vintage. Suckling: “Aromas of plums, clay tiles and sage follow through to a full to medium body, silky tannins and a linear and racy finish...Excellent.” Antonio Galloni said, “The richer, creamier style of the vintage while maintaining plenty of Fèlsina character,” and wrote it is “...one of the most dramatic, bold, young Fontalloro I can remember.” McD says pricey pick to accompany a shared bowl of spaghetti and meatballs with a cocker spaniel. 

Have you ever attended a Kevin Zraly wine class? Do you know who Kevin Zraly is? One of the most famous U.S. wine experts who made his bones with Wine Spectator, Kevin is world renowned and does journeyman work with his classes and tastings.

I want to recommend those with time and the means to enjoy serious tasting opportunities to check out his site, kevinzraly.com. I realize these events appear to be pricey. However, regulars are well aware I am a penurious, penny-pinching, price-conscious procurer. I try to only recommend high-value products. To date, I have received no, zero, nada, zilch complaints from any who took me up on recommended events of these sorts. Put it on your bucket list. High/fair price, higher value. 

I would be remiss indeed if I did not write a brief eulogy for a wonderful woman and longtime acquaintance and friend, Mama Nicola. Joan Caggiano has left a large hole to be filled in the fabric of the Rehoboth restaurant and charity scene. I’m sure many will write of her charitable efforts and her smiling, friendly demeanor as she presided over Nicola’s for so many years.

Joan befriended Barbara and me when we first came to Rehoboth, and we were starting new restaurants and raising young families. She and her husband Nick were fans of fine wine, and from time to time we would discuss our mutual enjoyment. As much as Joan enjoyed her restaurant, her charitable work and an occasional glass of wine, it was when she spoke of her family that her entire demeanor bloomed. Joan’s family and friends were paramount in her life.

Somehow, she managed many other avenues, but there was no doubt where her heart lay. The McDonalds send sincere condolences to Nick, his children and extended family. You were all blessed with Joan’s presence in your lives. R.I.P. Joan.