Fried rice meals combine layers of flavor

When I sit down each week to write this column, I approach the topic several different ways. Is there an upcoming holiday with associated menus or does the publication date coincide with availability of a specific seasonal food? Is there a new technique or product that might be interesting to explore? Or, I turn to my cameraman (Jack) and ask what he might like to photograph.

He surprised me this week with an Asian dish (not usually on his list of go-to foods). This one featured shredded chicken, scrambled eggs and crumbled bacon mixed with soy-seasoned fried rice. It occurred to me the appeal could have been the bacon, but I happened to have most of the ingredients on hand – just needed a quick dash to Lloyd’s Market for a rotisserie chicken.

As with so many foods, there are endless variations on fried rice and each country has its version, whether served at celebrations or sold as street food. While I can’t confirm the assertion, food historians believe fried rice was “invented” during the short-lived Sui dynasty (581-618 CE). Whether or not this is the case, the basic combination of rice, seasonings, vegetables, and meat or seafood (or both) seems a convenient way to repurpose leftovers.

And leftover is the key for successful fried rice. Typically you will want to use long-grain white rice that has been cooked and stored in the refrigerator for at least one day. This allows the grains to chill, lose some of their stickiness and completely separate from each other. If you omit this step, you will create gluey blobs of mushy rice.

For any fried rice recipe, you will be instructed to cook each ingredient separately, layering the flavors and textures as you go. Some other components will need to be pre-cooked, in addition to the rice. For this recipe, the bacon was crisped beforehand and the rotisserie chicken was shredded. Although many recipes will have you whisk the eggs in the same skillet as the rice and vegetables, this does not always deliver great results.

My approach to adding egg is to whisk the eggs in a measuring cup and pour them into a nonstick skillet heated with a little olive oil. Instead of the whirring and stirring for scrambled eggs, just let the beaten eggs form an even layer and cook on one side. Then, flip the pancake-like egg to cook the other side. Finally, just cut into pieces.

Some recipes will call for frozen peas that will cook during the short time they spend in the wok or skillet, but you can substitute fresh peas (if you can find them), which need the same minimal cooking time. This dish is a basic fried rice with only scallions (green onions) for garnish, but you can also toss on some toasted sesame seeds or bean sprouts.

If you have assembled all your ingredients in advance, fried rice comes together very quickly and is best enjoyed piping hot. It’s a great destination for so many different vegetable ingredients. Consider replacing the peas with steamed broccoli or cauliflower, and try chopped, cooked shrimp to replace the chicken.

The final piece of advice about fried rice is to completely ignore any recipe that suggests you add salt. Between the bacon (or chopped smoked pork chunks), soy sauce, and the seasoning in the rotisserie chicken, you will surely meet your daily sodium allowance with this recipe and almost every other version of fried rice.

Chicken & Bacon Fried Rice

4 slices bacon
1 T olive oil
2 beaten eggs
2 T toasted sesame oil
1 T olive oil
3 C cooked rice, cold
3 T soy sauce
1/2 t white pepper
2 C shredded cooked chicken
1/2 C peas
1 t chicken broth
3 sliced scallions

Cook the bacon until crisp; drain, crumble and set aside. Heat 1 T olive oil in a nonstick skillet. Pour in the beaten eggs and allow to form a thin layer out to the edges of the pan. Cook until set, about 2 minutes; flip and cook the other side, about another minute. Transfer cooked egg to a cutting board and cut into 1/2-inch square pieces; set aside. Combine the toasted sesame oil and 1 T olive oil in a large skillet. Heat over medium and add rice, making sure to separate all the grains. Use a spatula to toss the grains so they toast. Add soy sauce and reduce heat to low; cook for about 3 minutes. Add white pepper, shredded chicken, peas, chopped egg and chicken broth. Cover and cook until heated through, about 2 minutes. Garnish with bacon and scallions. Yield: 3 to 4 servings.

Shrimp Fried Rice

1 T olive oil
2 beaten eggs
1 T olive oil
1 lb peeled & deveined shrimp
1/2 t white pepper
1 T olive oil
2/3 C diced onion
1/2 C finely diced carrot
2 minced garlic cloves
1 t minced fresh ginger
1 T toasted sesame oil
3 C cooked white rice, cold
1/2 C peas
1/4 C soy sauce
2 T rice vinegar
sliced scallions

Heat 1 T olive oil in a nonstick skillet. Pour in the beaten eggs and allow to form a thin layer out to the edges of the pan. Cook until set, about 2 minutes; flip and cook the other side, about another minute. Transfer cooked egg to a cutting board and cut into 1/2-inch square pieces; set aside. Heat 1 T olive oil in a skillet over high; add shrimp, sprinkle with pepper and cook just until pink; transfer to a plate and cover with aluminum foil. Heat 1 T olive oil in the skillet; sauté onions and carrots until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in garlic and ginger; cook for a minute. Add toasted sesame oil and rice, stirring to separate the grains; cook until rice starts to crisp. Stir in chopped eggs, peas, soy sauce and rice wine vinegar; cook for about 2 minutes. Add shrimp, cover and cook just until heated through. Serve garnished with scallions. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.