Despite all the cooking shows, internet blogs and print articles I follow to learn about food trends, every once in a while, I encounter something completely new. In this case, it was a snack food I’d never before seen – a “walking taco.” This dish is reported to have its origins among food vendors at Midwestern county and state fairs, from where it became a tailgate staple and convenience-food favorite.
To build a walking taco, you start with a bag of tortilla or corn chips (more on the brand distinctions later). Before opening the bag, gently push your fingers along the outside of the package to slightly crumble the chips. Pull apart the bag to open it, and fold down an even layer around the top to reinforce the opening.
Now that you have what has become your taco shell, add the fillings directly into the bag: cooked, taco-seasoned ground beef; salsa; chopped tomato; shredded lettuce; diced onion; grated cheddar cheese; sour cream; and (if desired) hot sauce or jalapeños. The portability of the snack is where it got its name. You can literally walk around eating a taco with no spills and no mess.
The first time I was served one of these, the chips were Doritos tortilla chips, which is a good thing, because if it been made with Fritos corn chips, I might have been trespassing on the trademarked “Frito pie.” This originated in the Southwestern region of the U.S. and was actually created by the Frito-Lay company’s Consumer Service department in Dallas in 1949. Also known as the publicity department, the group was generating recipes to drive sales of their product.
Frito pie starts with a bag of Fritos – either an individual-size bag or a family-size bag – dumped into a bowl or casserole dish (different from a walking taco, which is always served in the bag). What really sets apart a Frito pie from a walking taco is that a Frito pie is always made with chili instead of taco meat.
There is a YouTube video of the late Anthony Bourdain, ever the outspoken chef and critic, from his series “Parts Unknown.” In 2013, he traveled to the Five & Dime General Store in Santa Fe, N.M., famous for its Frito Pie. His comments were both colorful and highly caustic because of the ingredients (see photo). He said, “I’m opposed to everything this dish stands for, and yet it is also delicious.” If you read the recipe for Frito pie, you can understand why.
Regional differences are quite stark when it comes to seasoned meat served with chips, either in a bag or on a plate. Some Southerners will call any bag-based meat with taco toppings a “walking taco” even if it’s topped with chili and served in a Frito bag. Midwesterners insist the chili makes it a Frito pie, while those in the Ohio Valley simply call the dish “taco in a bag.” On the West Coast, you’ll hear the term “pepper bellies,” which also pops up at college football games all across the country.
No matter what you choose to call it, the ingredients are not very healthy, even though there are low-salt versions of corn chips, and low-fat versions of cheese and sour cream. The one thing this quirky dish does have in its favor is how convenient it is to prepare, serve, eat and (most importantly) clean up after. You may want to add this to your Labor Day picnic menu!
Beef Taco Filling
Cook the meat in a skillet over medium-high heat, breaking up the pieces into a crumble. Drain off excess fat and sprinkle with flour; stir to combine. Add the remaining ingredients and stir to a smooth consistency. Cook until bubbling and sauce is thickened. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.
Walking Tacos
Gently rub the bag between your hands to slightly crumble the chips. Open the bag by pulling it apart at the top. Fold down an even layer all around and open the bag as wide as possible. Add remaining ingredients and serve.
Easy Frito Pie*
Preheat oven to 350 F. Heat the chili in a saucepan over medium until bubbling slightly. In a 12-inch, cast-iron skillet, spread a layer of Fritos, about one-third of the bag. Spoon half the chili evenly over the chips. Drain one can of Rotel tomatoes and spread over chili. Add half the remaining chips over the tomatoes and cover with half the cheese. Cover with remaining chili. Add remaining chips in a layer. Drain the other can of Rotel tomatoes; arrange over the chips. Top with remaining cheese. Bake until the cheese is bubbly, about 25 to 30 minutes. Allow to cool for 5 minutes before serving with salsa, sour cream and sliced avocado. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.
*Adapted from Frito-Lay.
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Send questions, comments and recipe ideas to Denise at capeflavors@comcast.net.
