Good things come in threes

Not long ago, a trio of tried-and true eateries descended on us beach dwellers. And in spite of their Eastern Shore Maryland roots, each one has garnered a loyal following of discerning diners. The creator and owner of these eateries is Chris Agharabi. He’s waaayyy too humble to tell you he’s discerning, but I’m here to tell you he definitely is.

Chris was born in New York and attended George Washington University. After spending a bit of time in sales, he enrolled in the (now closed) L'Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, Md. It made such an impression on him that he still stays in touch with his instructor, Chef Gérard Pangaud, the youngest chef to ever be awarded two Michelin stars in France.

After adding to what he calls his “culinary toolbox” at L’Academie, Chris moved on to work with Chef Damian Salvatore, former owner of Persimmon in Bethesda, Md. The hustle and bustle of Bethesda, a culinary mecca just outside Washington, D.C., proved to be a bit too much for Chris, so this New Yorker opened Ava’s Pizzeria & Wine Bar (in honor of his daughter) in the quiet town of St. Michaels on Maryland’s Eastern Shore. “I opened Ava’s at the beginning of the quiet season,” Chris told me, “and everybody said I was crazy. Well, of course I was; I wouldn’t be in the restaurant business if I weren’t.”

Chris, who I refer to on the radio as the Energizer Bunny, is obsessive about customer service: “When we first opened in St. Michaels, we picked out a couple of key customers that were never happy. Our goal was to make them happy. So we went for those people. We figured that that person would bring his friends, and that person – well, I don’t want to be unkind, but – might be a jerk. Well, not only are we experiencing that jerk, but his friends at the table are experiencing him too. We worked hard to make him happy, figuring that his friends would think, ‘If they’re making this guy happy, the place has gotta be good!’ We made him happy, they noticed, and everyone was happy.”

The first Theo’s Steaks, Sides & Spirits (Theo is Chris’ nephew) opened in St. Michaels next door to Ava’s. The Rehoboth Theo’s opened in early 2020 on Baltimore Avenue in downtown Rehoboth Beach. And it’s been standing room only since then. “We want the guest to feel like he or she is walking into our home,” Chris tells me. “It’s the guest’s night out, and we want to make it special. We want them to feel comfortable. We don’t want to be a ‘no’ restaurant. We want to be a ‘yes’ restaurant … within reason, of course.”

After Jakes Seafood closed at the corner of Baltimore Avenue and First Street, there were a couple of fits and starts in that location, but nothing seemed to catch on. Chris broke that trend, duplicating his first St. Michaels spot with the Rehoboth incarnation of Ava’s Pizzeria & Wine Bar. The restaurant is modeled after his philosophies outlined above and has been quite successful. One of the reasons is the Detroit Pizza – a deliciously different take on the traditional Italian pie. The other star at Ava’s Rehoboth is Ma’s Meatballs, and do not leave there without getting an order of beignets. Wait ‘til you see how they’re served.

I use the term “tucked away” a lot, but Hammy’s Burgers & Shakes on The Highway is in the ultimate tucked-away location. The structure of the center near the Safeway makes it difficult to see some of the stores. But take my word for it, if you venture into that huge parking lot, you’ll be rewarded with cleverly curated burgers broiled over open flame, dangerously addictive adult milkshakes, and some of the best darned wings around. (Get the Thai Chili or the Jerk Wings. You can thank me later.) As an aside, Hammy’s is named in honor of Chris Agharabi’s adorable beagle, Hamlet, so named because he is, in Chris’ words, “a tragic dog.” Can’t be too tragic to have a fun restaurant named after you!

It’s time for the locals to come out and play, so check out these well-run spots as you explore our culinary landscape here at the beach.