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Good value selections are worth looking for

January 23, 2017

Let’s start with a value selection, Gonzalez Byass Beronia Rueda Verdejo 2014 at $125/case. Keep in mind Verdejo is best consumed fresh because it depends on bouquet and acidity. However, I have enjoyed a few that were made to cellar and they are also enjoyable. I don’t write about Verdejo very often and I probably should. It is the most widely planted varietal white in Rueda in the center of Spain. Usually these are favorably priced, and they definitely complement our local menu of fresh seafood and veggies. The Beronia won several bronzes and silvers in 2014, and it is worth your search. It is green-tinged, pale golden-colored. The bouquet is mown hay, peaches, some herbal notes and a hint of fennel - don’t confuse it with licorice - and a clean, balancing acidity. Beronia Tempranillo and Rioja Reserva are also worth a look. They consistently gather 89s and 90s and can be found under $25 in many cases. Another top-of-line good QPR red, Bodegas Nieto Senetiner Don Nicanor Malbec 2013, priced under $190/case or $19/bottle. Lovely ruby-colored with a varied bouquet of blackberries, currants, dark chocolate and hints of barrel spice. These open on the ripe palate to cherry and more chocolate supported by decent mineral lift. Smooth tannic grip, long clean finish, 91 McD. This is vintage specific.

How about Bonny Doon Vineyard Grenache Syrah Mourvedre 2012 from the original Rhone Ranger, Randall Grahm. Typical highly aromatic nose. The GSM shows black cherry, strawberry with hints of anise and black olives. On the palate, juicy black cherry and plum flavors are supported with pepper and dried herbs. Medium-long finish carries the pepper and spicy theme, 90 McD under $20.

Haven’t written much about GRU VE lately, but the Stadlmann Grüner Veltliner is worthy looking into. Green apple, tropical fruit, peach with hints of white pepper and wet gravel bouquet. Runs to tart fruit flavors supported with a salty minerality and white pepper spice on the juicy palate. Zesty lime and mineral acidity support all through a clean, long finish; 91 McD when priced under $20.

Have you seen the footage on the news of the very large alligator? I am always amazed at seeing people taking pictures standing 20 feet from large, wild, flesh-eating animals. These animals when hungry can move very quickly. Anyway, please remember if you must place yourselves in these situations, be sure you run faster than at least one of those in your group. Unfortunately, as the clock continues to tick, I’m becoming that guy. Fortunately, with age comes wisdom, and my urge to see wild animals up close is nearly nonexistent.

Parts of the following were Bidenized from Winesearcher. I especially loved the comment, “her public rows with the famously thin-skinned Parker (their style preferences were polar opposites) were legendary.” RRs are well aware RP is not one of my gurus. Jancis Robinson MW, OBE, who is one, just donated her library to UC Davis. Four decades of articles, letters, videos, photos, published works and 275 notebooks with tasting notes going back to 1976. Ms. Robinson is noted for her expert palate and her in-your-face comments to her fellow critics when she disagrees. When she suggested the 2003 Chateau Pavie was a “ridiculous wine ... reminiscent of late-harvest Zinfandel,” Parker accused her of being a reactionary and said her comment was typical of the “nasty swipes” she was always taking at Pavie. RP also commented, “All British wine writers are corrupt.” (Parker was quoted by Wall Street Journal writer Bill Echikson.) I can’t wait for her writing to be catalogued and released. Robinson’s works will be in the company of R. Mondavi, Hugh Johnson and Maynard Amerine. What, no Broadbent or RP?

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