Keep an eye on 2009 Bordeaux prices
As we expected, the highly touted 2009 Bordeaux prices are starting to soften. I read a flier advertising the 95-point RP and 96 Suckling Chateau La Lagune Le Moulin de la Lagune Haut-Medoc 2009 on sale $390/six-pack with free shipping. This is down from a high of $84/bottle with no discounts in 2012.
Tanzer rated it 92 and JR wrote 15/20 when it was released. Both of these ratings were more accurate. Drinking well, already in their window, through 2023. This is a Grand Cru 3rd growth label. My notes read: Best left bank wine I sampled tonight, 94 points. Solid, dark purple, blackberry, fennel, floral, vanilla, earthy, some plum and coffee aromas. Loved finish with fruit sweet, plum liquor. Drink 2015-23. Compares to the 2005. There are still some 2005 around for $115.
Grassi Family Napa Valley Cabernet 2012 is in the same $65 price range. I rate it 92 points. Mostly Cab with a smidge of Merlot and Cab Franc. Purple-black hue, bouquet of black cherry, black currant, earth, tobacco and oak-driven spice. Balanced and round. Will cellar and improve but approachable now.
Fattoria La Lecciaia Brunello di Montalcino is consistent as the atomic clock; for 2004-10, the latest release, it rated 89-90. When I initiated 2010 at $13 in 2014, some Italian readers wrote to scoff. These were re-rated and are now selling for $31-32.
Wise guys will heed my call to buy the 2008, which is selling under $40, in its perfect window and easily found by your wine store pal. My notes: ruby color with berry, vanilla, toasted almond, cola and wood smoke. Buy 2010 for your cellar. For Riservas, Uccelliera at $80 or Casanova di Neri Cerretalto (last price $259) are the names here, but you will pay, if you can find any.
While I’m on generic Brunelli, hold on to your wallet on the 2010. Well-deserved reviews in the 96-98-point range have driven up the price. Do not confuse with Riservas, which usually double in price in a scant few years due to small production and far tighter quality control. The generic usually dips then trades in a range.
The strong $ should drive prices down. Don’t load up! If Italy goes the way of Greece, we will be looking at fire sales. Suckling loved the Fuligni 2010; he awarded it 98 and a big wet kiss. For comparison, when Tanzer laid on a 94 to the 2009, it jumped from $66 to $77. Subsequently it backslid to a low of $63 in October 2014, as it entered its drinking window and the 2010 was released. Currently resurging to the $67-$69 range.
Billsboro Sawmill Creek Seneca Lake NY Signature Riesling 2012 was delightful. The 2013 is around now selling for $16, another tough find but worth the search. Pale golden, with a vibrant floral bouquet, plenty of fruit, balanced with bright acidity and a hint of residual sugar, it is a perfect pairing for Asian spicy seafood. I served it with seared U/10 scallops on a bed of teriyaki blended with 5 spice, ginger, garlic, Thai chili and a side salad of udon with bok choy, brussels sprouts, shitake, roast Japanese eggplant, Nippon Taka (be judicious and be sure to wash hands and all surfaces. Intelligent people may keep a bottle or two of Kirin in close proximity), celery, garlic, green onion and snow peas all tossed with some of the sauce. As an aside, if you are put off by shitake, try drying them in the oven and rehydrate with the sauce.
The only sound heard for half hour was the soft click of chopsticks, the gurgling of pouring beer and popping of corks.
Recently, several wrote they were interested in available wine more than rare bottles or science questions.
I have been answering those privately. Although I reply to all, I will report when questions are broad-based. Email is chjonmc@yahoo.com. Love to hear opinions on GOP debate, Trump and Kelly or who you think looked best qualified. Wine questions always welcome.
Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
