Malbec from Argentina offers quality and affordability

Recently, there have been several requests for Malbec suggestions. Malbec has found its ideal growing spot in Argentina, particularly around the Mendoza region. Achaval Ferrer, a reputable, wide-range producer, focuses on Malbec, Cabernet and red blends. Those searching for top-flight value will be looking in the under-$25 range. You should be able to locate entry-level AF Malbec 2020, 91 McD points under $17; this is the best to date but may not have hit your shelves yet. Patience will be rewarded. These would enjoy a year or more in the cellar. I have been reviewing their wine since 2015. My lowest rating was an 89 for 2016. AF also produces several single-vineyard labels that range into triple-digit prices.

Three top-flight, old-vine vineyards 2018 products were just released by AF; all are hitting shelves in April. The Finca Altamira 2015s, rated 95 RP, 94 McD and great potential, are findable under $120. Finca Mirador was my favorite. Arising from ungrafted vines planted in 1921, the resulting low yield showed in its concentration. Blueberries, figs, barrel spice with a hint of pencil shavings; the acidity was well handled. 2018 was a terrific growing year in the Mendoza. The tannins were slightly elevated, as the color and age suggest. Jammy finish with faint herbal hints. Finca Bella Vista was more herbal with smoother tannins. More approachable, but I normally prefer fruit to floral/herbal in my reds.

For the rest of us, Vina Cobos Bramare Uco Valley is my place to look. The 2018 garnered a 93 McD; 2016 and ‘17 both came in at 92. Drum roll, please! Under $40, these get 2 price points. While 2018 is approachable, the 2017 is ready. Vina Cobos Malbec Mendoza is one of the most sought after, consistently high mid-90s, by most of the likely suspects. Ms. Jancis says 93, and since I think 6-9 bottles of Bramare will provide more enjoyment than one of either, I’m taking her word for it. Priced above $340/bottle, and their Chanares Estate Malbec, consistently 93, averages $250. I’m guessing these prices are more driven by small production. If any have had the pleasure, please inform.

Wine Spectator just awarded 95 points to Clos des Brusquieres Chateauneuf du Pape 2019. Well-deserved, their best vintage to date. Under $41, it is a terrific deal for folks with storage and discipline. I am assigning a $60 value here. 2019 was a wonderful year in the Rhone. It’s blended of 80% Grenache, 10 Syrah, and 5 each Mourvèdre and Cinsault from 70-year-old vines by up-and-comer Claude Courtil. Courtil is the godson and apprentice of world-renowned winemaker Henri Bonneau. This is small production, and Courtil employs longtime proven practices of natural growing and vinification. The wines are not filtered or fined. After aging, there will be sediment. Those with shaky hands or poor eyesight should have a small bolt of fine-mesh cloth for straining. Multitaskers may employ sterile mesh bandage material in a pinch. CdP has fallen off the spectrum for many. Those who try Brusquieres will likely get back in the swim. Bright ruby colored; berries, floral, barrel spice and garrigue hints segue into raspberry, blueberry, licorice and more barrel spice. These are supported by smooth integrating tannins, smoky minerality, proper acid lift. Fruit continues through clean, long finish.

Walter Hansel wines are worth finding. Proprietor Stephen Hansel makes a wide range of RRV Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, value priced around $40. They are always well made. Those who enjoy old-style Cali Chardonnay and Pinot Noir should contact info@sommselect.com. The 2019 Cuvee Alyce Chard follows a skein of 93-point lovelies since 2014. These are not the shrinking-violet, modern chardonnays. Rich, opulent, exotic, elegant and explode are in nearly every review. Always Drink Good Wine captured it best: “New oak provides toast, smoke, nutmeg and a gunflint [I’m unfamiliar with gunflint] hint with pie crust, spiced red apples, warm yellow peaches and loads of savory nuances – honey, hazelnuts, dried hay – at the core. Medium to full-bodied, it packs a wallop of flavor in the mouth, giving up oodles of warm fruits, spices and savory flavors, with great freshness to lift the very long, layered finish.” Amen, says McD!