More affordable, excellent wines worth the search

I’m sipping French wine while typing this on July 14, aka Bastille Day or la Fête Nationale Française. I was ruminating on the long-term disaster that the virulent left brought to the French people, “sans-culottes,” purportedly to resolve their plight at the hands of the greedy royals and aristocrat sycophants who controlled all the cash and good stuff. History can be a great teacher for the modern age. The radicals who brought the Revolution said let’s revolt and kill ‘em all. Short-term messy but quick and dirty when accomplished with the click and swift descent of the guillotine. And the crowd roared! The fake news claimed the ride in the tumbrils was the worst part. My reading teaches me otherwise. This was a messy affair. I won’t go into detail, but think about beheading and the evacuation it causes. Not a pretty sight. It went on 1789-1802, when Napoleon was named emperor for life. His time in power killed 1.8 million mostly Frenchmen and 600,000 civilians.

Here’s the lesson. Robespierre, the brains, and Georges Jacques Danton, Lucie Simplice Camille Benoist Desmoulins, Maximilien Francois Marie Isidore de Robespierre, and Louis Antoine Leon de Saint-Just, his very able lieutenants, were executed by the mob they had stirred. Danton, prior to his death, said, “La revolution devore ses enfants”; or “The revolution devours its children.”

Those interested in pricey French wines of high repute may wish to visit https://www.benchmarkwine.com. This site is replete with wonderful but expensive old wine that has been well stored. It is not an auction site.

Here are some affordable, excellent wines made primarily of the varietal Antao Vaz, which is known as the Chardonnay of Portugal. You will find spicy wine with apple, pineapple, melon, stone fruit, lovely minerality and citrus notes depending on the vintage and producer. Let’s start with a $13 Herdade do Rocim Mariana Branco 2017. Opens slightly floral, with apple and nectarine flavors, a bit of spice and honey plus proper acidity to support all, 87 plus 1 price point. Fitapreta Branco 2018 goes well with chicken and white fish. Pale lemon-colored with pleasing citrus nose and melon flavors supported by sufficient mineral flavors and acidity. Finishes cleanly with pretty fruit nose persisting, 88 plus 1 pp under $22. Herdade da  Malhadinha Antao Vaz da Peceguina 2016 is a step up for me. Pale, green-tinged straw-colored with apple, citrus and pie spice nose, and very well balanced. Serve this above 60 degrees, please. Colder suppresses the fruit nose and is deleterious, 89 McD under $13. You can’t miss with any of these. Brief refresher: Herdade = large rural property and branco = white, in Portuguese.

Let’s close with two Cali Cabs. Mi Sueño is a fairly well-known Mexican folk song. You may hear a lovely rendition here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CokZqkRcHmc&app=desktop. It is also a fairly priced, lovely Napa Cab, 93 McD points around $70. Deep ruby, it opens to dark berries, currants and oaken spices. Aged 22 months in oak. On the palate, anise, hints of eucalyptus and violets. This is full-bodied with longevity, balance, tannins slightly elevated. Chocolate and barrel spice persist in the long finish. Last but far from least, Line 39 California Cab 2017 is like stealing, folks. The wine has no pedigree, no famous vineyards, counties etc. The winemakers can buy grapes from anyone. Line 39 produces eight generic, low-priced varietal wines. A great place for novices to start. The 2017 Cali Cab is dark garnet-colored with fruit-forward nose. Look for currant, blackberry and a vague undertone of black tea. Subdued tannins and supporting acidity make it ready to drink now. I also tried the 2015, 89 McD, and 2016, 88 points. All three can be had for less than $10 each, so add 2 price points. I was amazed at the quality/price ratio here. Plan to try some of their others when time permits. Big props to Mark Rasmussen and Steven Decosta, who lead the Line 39 team.

Son Daniel’s band Tweed, Philadelphia’s top funktronica band, will be on the bill opening for The Motet at Bottle & Cork, Tuesday, July 23. Show starts at 9 p.m. Come on out to support them. See you there or be square.