More to coffee than morning cup

After a recent visit to a Kona coffee farm, we have a completely different perspective on what it takes to brew a delicious cup of coffee. To begin, the soil and climate in Hawaii are quite different from the traditional high-elevation coffee-growing regions in Jamaica, Brazil and Africa.

In Kona, the soil was formed from the mineral-rich volcanic eruptions hundreds of years ago. Tropical morning sunshine and afternoon haze provide the ideal climate for the beans to ripen. Smaller farms don’t employ mechanical pickers, but carefully plan their harvest when the color of the fruit turns from green to yellow to bright red.

The specific farm we visited added another twist to the growing process. Instead of allowing the trees to grow upright, sending branches in many directions, the staff at Kona Joe copied the practice employed by grape vineyards: trellising.

By training the coffee trees to open their branches along the lines of the trellis, more of the fruit receives the effects of sunlight at the same time (see photo). This optimizes the ripening process and increases the volume of beans ready for harvest together.

Once the fruit (called coffee cherries) is picked by hand, it needs to be depulped. This entails removing the outside protective layer and fleshy pulp surrounding the two beans within. If a cherry has only one bean, it’s called a peaberry bean, smaller and slightly rounder in shape.

Next, the beans are dried and sorted by size into several categories of beans. These are then roasted in small batches and packaged in vacuum-sealed bags with colorful labels and exotic names, such as Trellis Reserve, Kainaliu and Peaberry International.

Unlike many “Kona blend” coffees available, this producer specifies the percentage of Kona in the mix, typically a generous 30 percent. We tasted samples of the various coffees offered and could tell the difference between the trellised beans and the regular tree-grown beans, just as you would between varietals of fine wine.

One of the most common complaints about Kona coffee is its relatively high cost. When you factor in all the labor required to hand-pick, hand-sort and custom roast the beans, you can begin to understand some of the reasons. Also, a limited supply of true Kona drives the price higher than the beans from Starbucks or Dunkin Donuts.

Another aspect to some of the cost increases in coffee is the influence of Fair Trade policies. Millions of very small producers around the world live in remote locations and don’t have relationships with a coffee importer. They often sell their coffee to brokers offering a cash price that is below market value.

Through the efforts of Fair Trade USA, some of these coffee growers have been organized into cooperatives and connected directly to importers to receive an agreed-to minimum price for their harvest. Proponents say this arrangement promotes long-term sustainability, while detractors criticize the affiliation costs that can be a barrier to participation.

When you think about coffee from a food standpoint, there’s a bit more to it than just your morning cupful. As an ingredient in a recipe, you’ll either need brewed coffee or espresso powder (often dissolved in water). Try adding a teaspoon of espresso powder to the batter next time you bake chocolate chip cookies or brownies; you’ll notice how well it enhances the rich chocolate flavor.

I’ve included a recipe for ham with red-eye gravy (a Southern breakfast staple made with brewed coffee) and one for a decadent chocolate chip cookie. Try serving either with a cup of Kona coffee.

Ham Steak & Red-Eye Gravy

1 T butter
2 4-oz ham slices
1/3 C strong coffee
1/3 C water

Melt the butter in a cast-iron or other heavy skillet over medium. Add the ham slices in a single layer and cook until slightly browned, about 4 minutes. Turn over the slices and cook another 3 minutes; remove to a platter and cover to keep warm. Pour the coffee into the skillet and deglaze the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Raise the temperature to high and stir in water. Bring to a boil and cook until reduced, about 4 or 5 minutes. Place cooked ham slices on plates and ladle on gravy; serve with eggs and grits or biscuits. Yield: 2 servings.

Espresso Chip Cookies

1 1/2 T espresso powder
1 t hot water
12-oz package semi-sweet chocolate morsels
1/2 C softened butter
1/2 C sugar
1/2 C brown sugar
1 egg
1 1/4 C flour
3/4 t baking soda
1/2 t salt
1/2 C chopped pecans

Preheat oven to 350F. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper; set aside. In a double boiler, melt 1/2 C chocolate morsels. Combine espresso powder and hot water in a large mixing bowl. Add butter and sugars; beat until light and fluffy. Add egg and melted morsels; mix until creamy. Combine dry ingredients and add to the bowl, mixing thoroughly. Stir in remaining chocolate morsels and chopped pecans. Drop by level tablespoonfuls onto cookie sheet, about 2 inches apart. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes. Remove to a rack to cool slightly before serving. Store in an airtight container.

Send comments, questions and recipe suggestions to capeflavors@comcast.net.