New Jersey charity wine tasting brings in the big bucks
Just returned from my annual jaunt to New Jersey for the Gagnon Cardiovascular Institute charity wine event, probably my final major tasting until February. The hopper is loaded with notes for future columns. I had an opportunity to sample 53 2012 Napa Cabs. At the February Napa Premiere wine auction, the 2012s dragged in a record $5.9 million. The previous high was $3.1 million. One big-buck buckaroo bought 60 bottles of Scarecrow (RP 98) at $4,333/bottle. Smart shoppers can find Scarecrow around $475-$525 but this was a charity auction. Scared me off early! Two big-name distributors capitalized on Wine Spectator oohs and ahhs to raise prices. A NYC distributor bought two 94-point wines in their entirety, yet they were being sampled to a huge crowd. Roederer poured 2010 Cristal. That’s what I call generosity.
Gonzalez Byass Castell de Vilarnau Brut Cava NV, 87 points, under $170/case are lovely event toast sparklers. Spanish sparklers must meet stringent criteria to be labeled Cava: use Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parellada varietal juices; and use Methode Champenoise, not the Charmat bulk model. These are delicate, fresh and fruity, with proper acidity, especially fine for toasting due to persistent mousse at less than crackling cold temperatures.
Villa Sandi Il Fresco Prosecco DOC is pale straw-colored with a persistent fine bead. Aromas of ripe apples and mixed citrus appeared. On the palate peach, mixed citrus with proper acidity supporting the fruit. Villa Sandi refrigerates the Prosecco must (juice) upon crushing, keeping it at 32 degrees F. When needed, the must is brought to 59-61 degrees F, the yeast cultures added, fomenting fermentation, and bottled already sparkling. Mionetto Prosecco Brut DOC is also made of Glera juice and Charmat process. Consistently recommended best buy by many critics, I’m a fan of Mionetto when priced fairly under $175/case or $16/bottle, 88-90 McD. Pale straw-colored with peach and apple, proper acidity to balance fruit. Finishes cleanly.
Opus One 2012 will be lovely in several years. Right now, I think it is bottle shocked. It is also price shocked due to over-the-top praise and adjectival excess of many Napa Scribes and Pharisees. A closer look shows the ratings range from an effusive 97 to a less enthusiastic 91-92. Although ads read “Opus 2012 down to $235 from $299,” I say, “Still too darn expensive.” The Napa 2012 vintage year was so spectacular that almost anyone with a trellis and established vine or two could produce a palatable Cab. So hyperbole aside and given that Opus will be very lovely at some point aside, let me offer better options.
If you are patient, about five years, want to spend “big money” to get a prestige label (600 cases), Ovid under $300 is a deal. Screaming Eagle at $2,600/bottle? Puhleeze. Tanzer rated both 93-96. Eight Ovid or one Eagle, you decide. In the $225 range, Jos. Phelps Insignia is at least 96, some say as high as 100 points. Inky dark, redolent, complex bouquet of blackberries, blueberries, smoke, mocha, French oak, spices and leather riding a full-bodied, deep, yet balanced frame of acidity and integrated tannins. Very long palate with cleansing finish, showing chocolate and coffee notes. Don’t look for great price appreciation because 17,500 cases were produced. Try Ramey Pedregal $190, 97 points; Continuum by Mondavi is available in half bottles around $102, 96 points, a good opportunity to sample big-bucks Napa 2012. Something affordable from 2012 at $40 and 92 points is Ramey Claret Napa Valley Red. I don’t want to name such a first-rate, great QPR wine as a second label.
Troplong Mondot St. Emilion Premiere Grand Cru 2012 is reaching fair value, 93 points. Dark purple, complex mixed bouquet of plums, blackberries, chocolate, coffee and damp earth. The palate is equally complex with more plums, blackberries, and mocha riding on firm but smooth tannins (90 percent merlot). This is an exceptional wine that is rich, with plenty of structure and color for longtime cellaring. Reminds me of the 2008. The price is off 25 percent from its February highs around $107 to under $80. This is an excellent buy now.
Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
