Nonvintage sparklers provide consistent flavors
“I have drunk not to the clouding of my reason, but just so much that I can still surely distinguish the flavors with my tongue.” - Athenaeus.
Barbara and I just spent a remarkable time with Keith and Bee at the Back Porch Café. We ask Bee to suggest new wines and this visit was exceptional, with one small hitch. After plying us with a glass of Damn Good Wedding Wine, they mentioned they bought the entire production. When you go, request some. Our dinner was delicious as usual: sweet breads & Vouvray, beet salad & Frogs Leap Sauvignon Blanc for appetizers, soft shells/ Quivera Zin and lamb, done to a turn/ Trouchard Syrah. Top-quality food, expensive, great value!
One selection easy to locate was our aperitif, Mumm Napa Brut Rosé. The NV (nonvintage) designation allows the winemaker to produce the same flavor profile by varying varietal mix, vintages and process, so wine will always meet customer expectations due to profile consistency. Coral pink, lovely bead, a blend of pinot noir and chardonnay sourced from cool-climate Russian River grapes. Opens to black cherry, citrus and a vague hint of oaken spice aromas. On the palate, red fruit flavors balanced by proper acidity; it leaves a clean finish, 89 points priced under $17.
As promised, the Portuguese wine is coming in at fair prices. Spain should follow. Deep structural problems limit Spain’s growth potential and vulnerabilities remain. The high structural unemployment and pervasive labor market duality, and Spain’s lack of economies of scale for small firms hold back medium-term growth. Quinta do Soalheiro Alvarinho has been on Jancis Robinson’s screen for quite a while. Past few years, they’ve reviewed around 17.5/20. The 2014, 92 McD points, are dry, 9 percent alcohol. They show balanced tropical fruit, mineral expression with some herbal notes, tight acidity and a clean, long finish. Melgaco, home to this winery, is proximate to the Spanish region best known for its Albarini. Quinta do Soalheiro has one of the best Portuguese reputations, producing several levels of Alvarhino. The 2014 are a good entry level. They will age some. The 2012 were very nice also, 91 points. Notes read: straw color, citrus, melon, some herbs, nice balance of fruit, mineral and clean acidity. Long, clean finish.
Quinta do Passaduoro labeled Passa 2012 is new. Their entry level was worth mentioning. Ruby red, with plum and spice nose. Wood-driven spice, berries, plums and ripe tannins describe the palate, 87 points at $13. The Ruby Reserva Port are also great value. The winemaker was quoted as saying, “It was foot trodden,” then followed up with, “ intensely aromatic” in the description.
Actually, that they were matured five years in oaken barriques and had a fair price tag caught my fancy. Truth is that many claim foot-trodden is easier on the extraction and provides tannins that are silkier. The extent of my knowledge is that it causes purple legs and feet, Black currant and cooked cherry notes, great with pork grilled then served with sharp cheese, plums and cherries.
Antonelli San Marco Montefalco Rosso 2010 are a solid 90 points under $16. A lovely blend of 65 percent Sangiovese, 15 percent Sagrantino, 10 percent Merlot and 10 percent Cab spent nine months in oak. Dark ruby with purple rim. Pretty herbal bouquet, on the palate cherry and oak-driven toast notes. Served it with garlic, roast lamb racks. Nice combo. Another 2010, Tenuta Lunelli Ziggurat Montefalco Rosso are 70 percent Sangiovese, 15 percent Sagrantino, 8 Merlot and 7 Cab gets 92 points (2 price points). Also ruby purple, I loved the violet and blackberry aromas that evolved into vanilla and strawberry in the glass. A well-balanced, dry red, with plenty of fruit and proper acidity. An excellent buy at $17. Another Rosso, slightly upscale at $23, is Arnaldo Caprai. If you can only buy one, the Ziggurat at $16 is the way to go. If you can afford all three, have a comparison tasting with a few pals. Cellarers will find all to be great value. Big-buck buckaroos can throw in a Sagrantino or two to learn what all the fuss is about. I say, “Tempest in a teapot,” Lord North, or “Much ado about nothing,” Bard of Avon, to quote two old Brits.
Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
