Not all Napa Valley wines were affected by 2020 fires

Business folks, NB. Relatively new idea – HENRY: High Earning Not Rich Yet. Symbolic consumption is important to these older Millennials, who lean toward businesses that exhibit shared values in addition to quality products and great service. We’ve known this in Rehoboth for 40 years or more.

Caveat emptor!! Most informed winos know 2020 was the year of the fires. These precipitated decisions by several bellwethers to suspend production of reds; Shafer, Diamond Creek and Paradigm are a few. At Premiere Napa 2022, only 21 Cabernets were listed compared to 100 in most years. I’m not typing to pass judgment on these decisions; the money involved is off the scale. Kenzo Estate produced 20K cases of three labels of Cab-driven wine: Napa Valley Estate Cab Ai $320/bottle, 95 points Parker; Murasaki Cab $316, 94 McD; and Rindo, with 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot and 4% Malbec at $154, gets 92 McD. The 2015 Rindo was stunning at 95, can be found for $154; it came out in 2017 at $139, ready 2024. 

I mention Kenzo because winemaker star Heidi Peterson Barrett left after a 20-year stint due to refusing to produce the vintage. Much is in dispute regarding this decision. There is little info on smoke taint over time from Napa yet. Smoke taint has been well researched in other regions but the Sonoma/Napa events are too fresh for a proper read. Barrett’s career, in addition to Kenzo, includes original Screaming Eagle winemaker. She and husband Bo, Chateau Montelena winemaker, own La Sirena. She also consults for several prominent Napa vineyards, none of which made reds in 2020. Fair and balanced – Kenzo, owned by Capcom magnate Kenzo Tsujimoto, hired Barrett and David Abreu, “the Napa Dream Team,” to initiate his 1,500-acre winery in the ‘90s. His Kenzo VP Atsushi Akahane made some questionable statements, claiming Barrett was not the winemaker but a consultant, and Marc Nanes, her longtime assistant, deserved the credit. Barrett acknowledged Nanes as her second and very valuable assistant. My reading informs Heidi is the palate, the leader and one who allows her folks to do their job. She is indeed the winemaker on their letterheads. 

With that background, I finally arrive at some important issues. For many, smoky aromas, and flavors are enjoyable elements provided they’re not excessive. Keep in mind the barrels are normally toasted, or charred, in some cases, to induce these characteristics. Recently folks are advertising old sherry or Scotch whiskey cask-aged. Hmmm! There is no question that wine reflects ambient airborne scents. In fact, often these are the aromas one finds in descriptions. Grapes grown in closed test sites frequently have their varietal/clone aromas only. “Fruit” describes this. Capt. Obvious says Napa is a land of many steep valleys. Therefore, not all vineyards were impacted equally. Some warmer farms had already brought in the reds, which ripen much later than whites used for dry wine. I’m guessing there won’t be any whites made that require long-hanging, desiccated grapes. Acidity levels may be elevated where reds were picked early. My take is, why buy 2020 Cabs now? None worth their candle will be ready for at least a few years.

I finally visited a longtime friend, Paul Cullen, at the Room at Cedar Grove for the first time. I was prompted to stay out past curfew by the happy confluence of a charity wine dinner for his foundation, Paul Kares; a chance to dine with Barbara, Marguerite and Daniel; enjoying the entertaining Latin/jazz music with a smattering of oat burner from Hot Sauce band; and the opportunity to sample an excellent four-course dinner with Italian wine accompaniment and visit a bit with Paul. I’m so glad I went – delicious meal and wine, well served by an attentive staff in a pleasing environment. Added bonus was Hot Sauce, a talented, local quintet which has become quite popular in our region. Full disclosure, one of its members, Jimmy Davis, is my new son-in-law. He has just dropped a new album, “Jimmy Davis Presents Tiki Party.” You can access here: distrokid.com/hyperfollow/jimmydavis1/tiki-party. Davis wrote and performs the music on a wide variety of instruments and percussion. He also produced the album. Take a listen and you won’t call this nepotism.