Pasta dish celebrates Roman town’s golden anniversary

The death toll has risen to almost 300 people who were lost in last month's devastating earthquake and damaging aftershocks across the hillside towns outside of Rome. One of the places hardest hit was the picturesque commune of Amatrice. Ironically, the township was preparing for the 50th anniversary of their annual festival to celebrate their namesake pasta dish: bucatini all'amatriciana.

Assembled from just four local ingredients - guanciale (pork jowl), tomatoes, red pepper flakes and pecorino (sheep's milk cheese) - this dish is the ultimate comfort food. Popular in Roman trattorias and restaurants throughout the region, the signature dish is so beloved, Italy issued a postage stamp honoring bucatini all'amatriciana in 2008.

In a show of solidarity with the earthquake rescue efforts, chefs at many restaurants in Italy as well as a number in this country temporarily added the dish to their menus with plans to donate a portion of their sales to relief agencies. Based on how delicious the simple pasta dish can be, it won't be surprising if some chefs keep it on their menus.

Cured pork is central to the flavor profile and mouthfeel of this dish. Purists insist on using guanciale or cured pork jowl for its silky, rich fattiness. For those unable to find guanciale, high-quality pancetta (cured pork belly) is a reasonable substitute. Not as fatty and with a tendency to become tough and chewy with overcooking, pancetta will work if treated properly (be sure to avoid pre-packaged, thin-sliced pancetta).

Some chefs will substitute thick-sliced slab bacon (smoked and cured pork belly) over poor-quality pancetta, but the smoke essence can be a distraction from the simple flavors of amatriciana. I tried to find guanciale in the Lewes area, but without success. The folks at Taste of Italy advised a trip to a specialty butcher in Baltimore, Wilmington or Philadelphia.

Bucatini, also known as perciatelli, is the traditional pasta shape featured in amatriciana. Resembling a thick strand of hollow spaghetti, this ingredient was also impossible to find in the local markets. Substitutes include regular (not thin) spaghetti or the shorter tubes of rigatoni. The name for bucatini derives from the Italian root buco, which means hole or pierced.

After these basics, the variations to this recipe are legion. The argument for adding onion and garlic is met with the problematic drawback of longer cooking time and louder, sharper flavors. Typically, sheep's milk Pecorino cheese is the only choice, while non-purists don't hesitate to substitute grated Parmesan.

Canned tomatoes are perfectly acceptable and actually preferred over fresh for this recipe. The best choice are San Marzano tomatoes sold locally under the Cento and Furmano's brands. Muir Glen, an organic brand, has canned tomatoes that are your next best bet. The secret of the sauce is to simmer off most of the liquid, leaving thick, hot tomato puree that clings to the pasta.

I've included an authentic recipe for bucatini all'amatriciana and an alternative version that calls for substitute ingredients that are more readily available in the local grocery shops. At its essence, bucatini all'amatriciana combines rich cured pork, sweet tomatoes, peppery heat and the sharp, salty kick of pecorino cheese - a balanced combination that needs nothing more.

Bucatini all'amatriciana

1 lb bucatini pasta
1 T salt
12 oz chopped guanciale
1 1/2 t red pepper flakes
28-oz can tomatoes, drained
2/3 C grated Pecorino cheese

In a large pot, bring 6 quarts of water to a boil. Add pasta and salt; cook one minute less than the package instructs.

Meanwhile, place guanciale and red pepper flakes in a large, deep skillet over low heat. Cook until the meat has rendered most of its fat, but has not browned or crisped, about 10 minutes.

Drain all but 2 T of fat from the pan and add the tomatoes. With the back of a wooden spoon, crush the tomatoes and scrape up any bits stuck to the bottom of the pan.

Raise heat to medium and keep at a simmer while the pasta finishes cooking. Drain the pasta and add to skillet along with the cheese; toss to thoroughly coat. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

Bucatini all'amatriciana

8 oz bucatini pasta*
2 t salt
1 T olive oil
6 oz cubed pancetta
1 t red pepper flakes
16-oz can tomatoes
1/2 C grated Pecorino cheese

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add salt and pasta; cook one minute less than advised on package. Meanwhile, add olive oil to a large, deep skillet over low heat. Add pancetta and cook until almost crisp, but not browned. Stir in red pepper flakes and tomatoes with juice. Crush the tomatoes with the back of a spoon.

Cook over medium until most of the liquid has evaporated and sauce is thickened. Remove cooked pasta from boiling water with tongs and add to the skillet. Toss to thoroughly coat the pasta with the tomato mixture.

Remove from heat and add cheese, tossing well. Yield: 2 to 4 servings. *Note: regular spaghetti or rigatoni may be substituted.