A pause for some Port wards off winter chills

Before reading today’s column, check out a synopsis of Biden admin 461-page guidebook to help federal, state and local government officials know how to access the nearly $1 trillion made available by the bipartisan infrastructure bill. Former New Orleans Mayor Mitch Landrieu is supervising the infrastructure spending. Call your elected officials and ask all to read the guidebook, then apply for the cash. Landrieu fixed the Katrina mess which was dumped in his lap by Ray Nagin, convicted of 20 of 25 corruption counts. He escaped other charges with a generous (in my opinion) plea deal and was sentenced to 10 years in 2014, released in 2020. He did less than six years. Most agree that Landrieu did a darn good job and kept his hands from the overflowing public trough for Katrina remediation. Some readers have a pretty good idea of my political leanings. Hopefully some will recognize this is not personal; it’s just business with me. Praise for good public servants right or left is easy for me. Mitch, his daddy Moon and elder sister Mary are three. Keep in mind we’re talking New Orleans politics – all terms are relative. On a fun note, congrats to CBS for their wonderful halftime hash. 

What with shoveling, football and the brief on the bill, I decided Saturday and Sunday were ideal Port days. Graham’s Six Grapes Reserve NV Port was first choice, due to returning inside from the cold for a brief, shoveling respite and warmup. Keep in mind these are 20% ABV (40 proof) with 100 g/l of residual sugar; a 2 oz portion is sufficient to warm you right up. I love currant, chocolate and caramel flavors. The nose is complex with currants, smoke, and mineral/coal notes. Tannin well incorporated; acidity is elevated but supports the sugar and flavors well, 90 McD under $22. Six Grapes wins silver and gold at many events where it participates. Several Port producers make a Reserve Port. Cockburn’s Special Reserve under $17, 86 McD, is pruney and a bit syrupy for my taste. Those going upscale to $38 may wish to check out Quinta Dos Casto Vinhas Velhas (old vines). These are vintage designated and have a long skein of 91-92-point reviews. Originally introduced to me by a J. Robinson review. She claims the 2018 is better than most previous vintages and RP says 95. I have not been able to grab any; too far down the critic pecking chain. However, any from 2007 forward are good bets. Don’t look for price appreciation, but 2013 got 92 McD points and the rest were 91. Likely suspects claim with the hot Douro summer, the 2019 may be brilliant on release. My advice, be patient on the 2018 buys. Repeat advice, opened fortified varieties will keep several weeks if properly stored. For my money, few wines beat Reserve Port for instant gratification in front of a fireplace. If you are a two-glass person, make sure all jobs are done and you are in your napping chair. 

I decided to brighten up Sunday dinner by cracking the last bottle of 2013 Trisaetum Ribbon Ridge Estate Pinot Noir from the Chehalem Mountains District in Oregon. Barbara and I thought it was stunning while visiting; we scored it 93 and bought a case, which improved. Barbara is an integral member of my tasting panel. Possibly her palate may be better. Don’t mention I wrote that. I can report with no reservation, this label has been a consistent winner. The ‘18 is at the top of the past eight years with 91-93-point ratings. Can be found under $50. Smart buyers should take advantage of case pricing with a mixed case of their five Pinot Noirs. All are rated by most 91-92 except 88-point generic Willamette label, 88 McD @ $30. Noted artist James Frey and his wife Andrea started as home vineyard owners, and James gained his wine chops from neighbor Josh Bergstrom, famous for Winery Block, Silice, La Spirale and Le Pre du Col (planting, farming and winemaking), and Louis Jadot winemaker Jacques Lardiere, who produced the Resonance label at Trisaetum from 2013-17. President Obama served the 2015, named No. 3 Wine in the World by WE, at some state dinners. Really messed with its price.