Pinot Noir examined from a value standpoint

I had this week’s column in the can when Wine-searcher crossed my screen with this headline: The world’s best-value Pinot Noirs, by Don Kavanaugh, a writer whom I consider a valuable read. So, I stopped typing to inform myself with some ideas. I appreciate this review because he includes “value” as a criterion. Scores are derived as follows, paraphrased – Usually, our superlative lists don't take vintage into account. However, vintage variation affects the score so much, we concentrate on individual vintages of wines for our best-value lists. We used a more direct point-to-dollar ratio for a simplified bang-for-buck scale than our standard algorithm. Simply dividing the score by the price gives a value factor, and the higher the factor, the better the value. Every rated wine has a minimum aggregated critic score of 91.

Longtimers know I have railed against scores that don’t reflect value. I don’t write to appeal to federal stock swindlers who can afford a $10K bottle that scores 100 points. Employing the 100-point scale in order to keep it real, I addend price points, clearly stipulated, when appropriate. Since Kavanagh is hot off the press, I have only sampled three of the 10 wines You may access the column here: wine-searcher.com/m/2021/09/the-worlds-best-value-pinot-noirs.

Errazuriz Max Aconcagua Costa Las Pizarras Pinot Noir, Chile, is the most consistent label from the producer. I recommended it in 2015, ‘16 and ‘19. It has rated 92 McD or better since 2014 and can be had for $75-$85. The 2019 is their best yet, 95 McD. They also produce a consistent mid-90-point Chardonnay in the $65 range. Best bets are 2015, ‘18, and the 2019 got raves near 97 points. I have not found any yet. The “best value” label Errazuriz Aconcagua Costa 2019 quoted price was around $25. If you happen to enjoy raspberry-scented and -flavored PN that is medium bodied and fresh on the palate, jump all over it under $25. 

Barbara and I visited Hartford Family Winery on our last trip to California. The Court Land’s Edge Vineyard produces a consistent 90-plus-point Sonoma Coast PN. 2017 was rough with the fires and flooding, but their wine came through unscathed and the media trashing brought pricing down below $35 on this 93 McD lovely. Cherry, pomegranate and dried rose bouquet; raspberry, plum, and licorice ride proper acidity and smooth tannins through a long, clean, mineral-mocha finish. The 2018 is killer, McD 94 under $45. Sweet cherries, orange rind, rose petals and sandalwood aromas, medium body, smooth, ripe tannins support berry flavors. Finishes with mocha and salinity hints. If you like buttery Chardonnay and you see any from Hartford’s Four Hearts vineyard, the 2016, ‘17 and ‘18 are great buys under $40. Are you observing a scheme here? 2018 was a wonderful year in Sonoma. Anthill Farms Campbell Ranch PN 2018 deserved a better rating, in my opinion. Although the criteria are clearly stipulated, trying to scale a $15 bottle to a $35 may leave out parts of the story. A critical issue is that Hartford and Ant Hill can be easily found and enjoyed while Tabali from Chile can only be found there and in Great Britain. Adding shipping costs will definitely skew the bang-for-buck algorithm. I am planning on bringing in the Nico Soeur 2018 and the White Rose for a look. The White Rose 2015 is advertised by Pennsylvania Liquor Control at $22 and the 2017 at $40; both were reviewed in the mid-90s by all the local suspects.

Don’t like ending on a down note, but this needs to be disseminated. Euroland took and is taking a major hit in 2021. France saw 29% crop losses with Burgundy, and Ahr River, Germany, is also in dire straits, both with as much as 50% loss in grapes with perhaps 70-80% occurring in Cotes de Beaune, 75% plus in Champagne. Italy expects about 10% less yield, and Tuscany will be most affected. The only good Euro news appears to be Spain and the Douro in Portugal. I’m informing you so you can lay in some holiday supplies before the shelves dry up. In addition, all that brouhaha about the supply chain is understated. Acquaintances in the wine biz claim delays are much worse than described. There are hundreds of ships awaiting unloading and reloading, and it is major ports worldwide, not just Long Beach and Norfolk.