Pinot Noirs are food-friendly for Thanksgiving and other occasions

This week will be about affordable Pinot Noir. Smart planners will remember that many PNs are fine accompaniments for a Thanksgiving feast. Let’s start with Artesa Winery Los Carneros Napa Pinot Noir, recently found for $22, McD 89. The 2016 shows a pretty bouquet of cherry and plum with rose petal back notes. On the palate, look for blueberry and strawberry supported by a clean acidity through a long finish that allows some barrel spice and damp earth notes. Lafond Winery Santa Rita Hills 2016, 91 McD, WS 92, under $25, is dark ruby-colored with a complex bouquet of raspberries, violets and cherry-cola-lavender hints. Pronounced tannins, bright acidity. Great with smoked food. Producers recommend for teriyaki.

Next up is Siduri Willamette Valley PN. Siduri is well known for its boutique, small-volume PN productions. Adam and Dianna Lee produce about 10,000 cases from five different AVAs in California and Oregon. Siduri is the alewife character in the Epic of Gilgamesh, the divinity responsible for fermentation of beer and wine. The Willamette label has rated 88 or better since 2012. The 2017 is a solid 89 and the 2018 is 88. Look for cranberry, raspberry, laurel and damp earth aromas. Lots of fruit on the palate, big raspberry accented with black cherry, boysenberry and pie spice. Grilled tuna or salmon or medium-rare duck breast go well.

Siduri has at least 12 PN labels produced of grapes from five cool-climate AVAs in California and Oregon, such as Sta. Rita Hills; RRV in Sonoma, the 2018, 89 McD around $30; Pisoni Vineyard in Sta. Lucia Highlands, 92 McD around $47; Van Der Kamp, Sonoma Mt., not sampled; Clos Pepe Vineyard 91 points at $65; Keefer Ranch in Green Valley consistent 90 points under $50; Yamhill-Carlton Oregon 2016 is 91 points and a great QPR around $35; Hirsch Vineyard in Sonoma has a good reputation but I’ve not sampled it; and Cerise Vineyard Anderson Valley is not done every year. The 2017, 91 points around $46, is worth searching. They also produce non-vineyard-attributed labels from each region. Keep your eyes peeled for Siduri; they specialize in handcrafted PN. Siduri is one of a very few producers I blanket recommend, vintage dependent of course. That said, they usually are top of the class irrespective of weather. Adam Lee is a Pinot Noir palate prince. The guy can turn lemons into lemonade, to mix metaphors.

Another well-known Cali producer was Charles Wagner (RIP 2002) of Caymus. He is followed as winemaker by his son, granddaughter Lorna and grandson Charlie, who are both accomplished in their own right. As time has passed, a succession of Charles, Chucks and Charlies have grown their stewardship to Conundrum, Meiomi and Belle Glos fame. Jenny Wagner is the youngest and makes Emmolo. As regulars will remember, I’m a very strong proponent of following the winemakers, the chefs of winemaking. Charlie found a wonderful location on Sta. Lucia Highlands moderated by the cooling and fog from Monterey Bay to grow PN. Nearly perfect growing conditions allow long hang times and slow ripening to provide structure and nuance to the juice. Mer Soleil Reserve PN 2017 is a solid 90 under $30. Needs another year on the shelf; the 2016 is ready now, 89 McD under $38. My notes on the 2017 say: Dark damson plum-colored, opens to cherry, blueberry and toasted barrel notes. On the big, round palate look for cherry pie, cola, toasted barrel and licorice plus a bit of cocoa. This is no shrinking-violet delicate wine, but a potent representation of cool-climate PN. Please let it sit until 2022. 

Let’s close out the week with a fairly unique offering from my friends at Trisaetum in Oregon. They are releasing a white PN named Nuit Blanche 2018 on Oct. 4, with 50 cases produced, selling for $99/3-pak. It’s had 100 percent French oak barrel fermentation with very little skin contact. This is pale rose-tinted golden with a floral nose of acacia, daffodil, and stony minerality supported by bright acidity. It is recommended to serve with charcuterie and sharp cheeses, but I’m adding oysters and steamed shellfish. A very lovely addition to your Thanksgiving hors d’oeuvres plate. In addition to its ability as a food wine, it has the added attraction of providing a conversation starter. Think about it. When was the last time you tried a white PN? Don’t get sucked into “cold chain shipping.” The lazy hazy danger zone has probably passed.