Rack of lamb makes excellent holiday dish

In anticipation of Easter, all the markets are well stocked with chocolate goodies and more cuts of lamb than any other time of the year. These range from the traditional leg of lamb to various types of chops to my favorite - the rack. A rack of lamb is cut from the shoulder to the loin all in one piece, leaving the rib chops connected.

Typical preparation for a rack of lamb includes another step called Frenching, where the bones are trimmed from the loin meat of the chop to the ends of the ribs. The meat at the center of the chops stays under a thin blanket of fat, while the bone ends are stripped bare. A good butcher will scrape off all the fat and stringy bits clinging to the bones so they don't burn during roasting.

Cooking individual loin chops can be tricky, which is why the rack of 7 or 8 can be a better choice. Rather than trying to estimate the ideal cooking time for separate chops (whether thick or thin), the meat on the rack is contiguous and you can treat it like a roast, testing for doneness with a thermometer.  But, before you start cooking, we should define a few terms. Technically, in order to call the meat "lamb," it must come from sheep less than 12 months old. After that first birthday, the animal and its meat are referred to as hogget. And, by the time the sheep has passed the two-year mark, the meat is sold as mutton.

Characteristics of the meat change as the animal ages: from the tender texture and clean, white fat found in lamb to the firmer texture and thicker fat layer of hogget. The mature connective tissue and yellowish, stringy fat of mutton give it a stronger flavor and chewier texture. 

Since sheep were originally raised for their wool, animals were kept on the farm for as long as they were healthy breeders. This meant that the only meat you would find for sale was mutton; a lamb was barely old enough for its first shearing at 12 months. Today, most of the lamb sold in this country is imported from New Zealand and Australia where the sheep are grass-fed and pasture raised. American lamb that is bred for meat may be grass-fed. However, like beef, it's often finished on grain to increase marbling and tenderness. 

If you're shopping for a rack of lamb that isn't sold frozen, check the packaging carefully. The thick outside plastic should be taut, similar to a vacuum pack. Avoid packages that feel loose or wiggly, which might signal damage to the sealed plastic. Inside, you'll find the rack wrapped in a textured cloth-like paper that helps maintain freshness.

When I cook a rack of lamb, I follow three easy steps: a pan sear, a short roast and a brief moment under the broiler. The pan sear gives the fat layer a good start on its transition to crispness. Roasting takes about 15 minutes with a test near the end to check the internal temperature.  Once the thermometer shows 120 F, coat the exterior of the meat with persillade and place it under the broiler for about 1 or 2 minutes. Keep in mind, the meat will continue to cook another 5 or 10 degrees as it rests after you've taken it out of the oven, and the tender meat is best served medium rare.  The sharp notes of the persillade are an ideal contrast to the silky, rich meat.

The name for this mixture of minced garlic and parsley comes from persil, the French word for parsley. The recipe here makes just enough to top a single rack of lamb; if you need a larger amount, make it in the food processor, instead of mincing by hand. For a slight variation, add a little lemon juice or zest to create gremolata. Slice the rack into chops and serve with fresh asparagus for a lovely Easter dinner.

Roasted Rack of Lamb 

1 Frenched rack of lamb 
1/2 t salt 
1/2 t pepper

Preheat oven to 425 F. Trim off any excess fat or stringy bits from the meat. Dry with paper towels and sprinkle all over with salt and pepper. Heat an ovenproof skillet on high until hot but not smoking. Place the meat in the pan, fat side down; cook for 2 minutes. Turn over the rack and cook another 2 minutes. Transfer the pan to the oven and roast until the internal temperature reaches 120 F, about 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and turn on the broiler. Coat the top and sides of the meat with persillade and return the pan to the oven. Cook for about 2 minutes. Take the pan out of the oven, cover the meat loosely with aluminum foil and rest for 10 minutes before slicing into separate chops. Yield: 2 servings.

Persillade 

2 T chopped parsley 
1 t minced garlic 
1 T bread crumbs 
1 t olive oil

Mash ingredients together in a small bowl to create a paste. Use as a flavorful coating for lamb chops or broiled fish filets, applied during the final moments of cooking.