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WINE

Ridge Zinfandels have large following

March 23, 2015

Recovered from St. Paddy’s Day festivities. We had a ball. Several requests on who sells Frank Family Vineyard wines locally. My pal Paul Karp, longtime big chief at Vintage Imports, provided some locations. Bin 66 is the largest buyer in Delaware. Beach Liquors and Banks also carry the line. In addition, local restaurants such as Eden, Jam and several of the SoDel Concepts restaurants offer Frank Family Vineyards wine.

There was also a request from another Paul on where I found 3 Floyds. Readers here will remember I go to Indianapolis for the Midwest Classic and occasionally to the “brickyard.” I was exposed to 3 Floyds in Indianapolis. Sadly, our state legislators make it impossible, due to the ridiculous laws they have passed, to legally bring wine into Delaware. Being the law-abiding citizen I am, I can give no more information. I do deplore the neo-prohibition our legislators have imposed. I hope for a return to much better times when Delaware was managed by conservatives. In those halcyon days of yore, we had a $1.8 B surplus rather than a $1.9 B deficit. Auto companies flourished, NCR employed hundreds, DuPont had Seaford humming, and large banking interests headquartered here, providing many jobs for Delawareans. They were indeed the “good ole days.”

Hermann J. Wiemer semi-dry Riesling 2012 from the Finger Lakes Region in N.Y. is delightful and can be had at a delightful price, less than $17/bottle and possibly$185/case. Pear blossom and lavender aromas open to a full-bodied wine with great “legs” (viscosity). Pear, apricot and peach flavors vie with citrus overtones on the palate. The fruit rides an acid-bright, mineral frame though a very clean finish. Drinking well now, it will cellar through 2020. I found some at State Line in Elkton, and shared it with some old pals in Havre de Grace.

Burgundy buffs need to read an article by John Downes titled Meet the Hospices de Beune, reprinted in Snooth: www.snooth.com/articles/hospices-de-beaune/. Downes is one of 300 or so master winos.

Big-buck buckaroos and speculators take a look at the Ridge Monte Bello 2013. It reminds me of the 2005, which Tanzer said 95 and Robinson said 18.5, but the rest were less enthused. Profile nearly identical; if memory serves both wrote: ”ready 2016-2032”. Came in at $114 in January 2007 and languished at $107-$110 through September 2008; it is now as of January selling at $213. The 2013 were rated 95, have risen to $129 and fallen back to $110; they will go north of $275 by 2021 if the pattern holds. Browse wine searcher pro to access the charts. Monte Bello has not failed; they always exceed at auction. Worse comes to worst, you’ll be drinking a mighty fine blended Zin.

Ridge Geyserville 2013 may be the earliest review, a solid 94 points when bought below $34, but you will need to be patient. Ridge Zins have a large audience. They always blip up on release. The time to buy is a year out when the next vintage releases. Unless it is a stinker vintage, the previous year sells off about 10 percent from a short-term high. I’m projecting 2017-35. The 2013 is inky dark, opens to black cherry, plum, barrel-driven spicy oaken aromas and river stone minerality. Geyserville Zin is actually a blend, and the use of slightly higher percentages of Petite Sirah and Carignan seem to deliver an elevated blackberry flavor many find appealing. Where some find mint, I detect mild menthol from eucalyptus. The wine finishes long and clean. It will definitely improve for many years. Paul Draper of Monte Bello recently attended a Ridge Zin dinner at Boulud’s in NYC. He wrote the 1973 Geyserville and the ’74 Lytton Springs were: “my favorite wine of the night, wonderful perfume of lavender and berries … a massive, long, layered finish showing how well great Zinfandel can age.”

Further…”The massive structure of the Lytton Springs was perfectly tamed…dark fruit in the glass. Seamless, with a lovely, long finish. a perfect complement and contrast to Geyserville.” Few know Zinfandel like Mr. Draper.

Don't forget, March 22-29 is Philly Wine Week. Go to www.phillywineweek.org/#!events/cz1f for details.

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