Sample the Mediterranean – right here at the beach

Ahhh … the heady aroma of spiced, marinated and roasted lamb or chicken! Even better when folded lovingly into warm pita rounds with cool lettuce, and perhaps some crunchy chunks of cucumber and onion. The fire-roasted meats can also be served in strips with rice or presented on a skewer with onions, tomatoes, green peppers, button mushrooms and who knows what else. Most of these savory delights are finished with a light and creamy yogurt mixture redolent of garlic and mint. Gyro, shawarma and kebobs are delectable representations of Mediterranean street food – particularly the Middle East. A variation on the theme is the döner kebab, a combination of meats shaved from a rotating cone that roasts and marinates the product. It’s a street-food hit in Turkey. And we can get it right here in the Cape Region.

The Turkish version and the popular Greek gyro sandwich (pronounced yeer-oh sand-witch) are quite similar, with only regional differences to distinguish them. Here in Rehoboth Beach, you can treat yourself to various versions, some with a Wilmington Avenue flair, others with a Rehoboth Avenue accent, and some hailing from a seaside region known as the Boardwalk.

One of the specialties at Aroma Restaurant at Second & Wilmington is the Adana Kebab. Unlike the standard skewered lamb, chicken or sometimes beef cubes (often presented with grilled tomatoes, peppers and onions), the Adana Kebab consists of spiced, ground and grilled lamb with charred tomatoes. Aroma boss Murat Tan and his lovely daughter Yasemin are particularly proud of their authentic take on the Adana Kebab as a respectful nod to Adana, a city in southern Turkey. They added their own touch by also making it available with delicately spiced ground chicken.

Semra and John Tekmen at Semra’s, Kosta Tsoukalas at Robin Hood, the Svolis family at Gus & Gus’ Place, and Kevin Salamah at Sammy’s Kitchen all dish up gyro sandwiches in the shawarma tradition. Some use pre-prepared strips of meat, and others slice it off a rotating spit. In fact, the words “gyro” and “döner” are variations on the word “to turn” or “rotate.” Imagine a standard rotisserie, but with vertical heating elements or flames that continually sear the meat.

I mentioned the yogurt/cucumber sauce. In Turkey, it’s called cacik, but the Greek version is called tzatziki (pronounced zat-zeekee – please stop saying tah-ziki!). There are as many recipes for this cool and creamy dressing as there are Greek and Middle Eastern restaurateurs. The base is Greek yogurt, though some may throw in a little sour cream. They’ll probably add crushed garlic. Red wine vinegar? Maybe. Definitely cucumbers – chopped or pulsed in the processor, then drained with salt. A little lemon? Maybe some olive oil? Probably. Dill, mint or sumac? Maybe, maybe not. It all comes down to how grandma made it back in the Old Country.

At Semra’s Mediterranean Grill, John and Semra have opted for the rotisserie version of gyro sandwiches. They have two vertical roasters for lamb/beef and the chicken versions at the same time. And if you look very closely into Gus & Gus’ Place on the Boardwalk, you’ll see a similar setup.

Of course, Mediterranean food isn’t all about Middle Eastern cuisine. If we look to the left toward Spain and Portugal, you’ll get an idea of what’s dished up over on Baltimore Avenue at Café Azafrán. You know you’re at the right place when a bowl of happily plump olives greets you as you sit down. Pick hits at Café Azafrán include the veal sausage with cannellini beans, and haricots verts (long, skinny green beans) simmered with blue cheese, butter and hazelnuts. Chefs Richard and Ryan’s Lamb Albondigas (meatballs) are slowly cooked in red pepper sauce and showered with pecorino. Azafrán’s tapas concept makes it easy to sample a variety of goodies and still have room for a cocktail or two.

Mediterranean flavors aren’t hard to find here at the beach, and there’s no shortage of fresh paella, Iberian small plates and savory meats slathered with house-made tzatziki. And of course there are those olives. Escape from the ordinary! Give Mediterranean and Middle Eastern a try, and tell me your favorites.

Bob Yesbek writes and talks beach eats nonstop. He can be reached at byesbek@capegazette.com.