Shaking out the mailbag brings intriguing results

The hits just keep on coming, disgusting stupid, loud and repetitive. That’s my political statement for the week.

Lots to cover from the mailbag this week. Jeff asked about a three-bottle vertical 2013-15  of Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, each selling around $100/bottle. This producer sells many different labels of 1ere Cru Chassagne. They run from $169 for Les Chenevottes 2013 to $99 for Morgeot Les Fairendes. The 2014 Chevenottes runs $99 and the Les Grandes Ruchottes is $139. Of the 2015s, Abbaye de Morgeot goes for $159 and Les Fairendes $99. Send a bit more info and I will provide a review. Over the past nine years, Les Chevenottes has scored 90-92 McD. Much of their product is limited to a single 300-350-liter barrel lot. You know how I deplore false scarcity. I had the pleasure of a large panel tasting of the Morey Montrachet. My favorite thimbleful was of a Batard Grand Cru 2011. Sadly, I can’t justify paying $800/bottle and a thimbleful “don’t geddit” for me. His Pulignys score 91-92 and run around $200. The 2010 Folatieres was particularly well received. Their best recent Le Montrachet Grand Cru was 2009, praised by most writers mid-90s. Jancis Robinson wrote a 19. Regulars know I hold her in highest regard both as a point-stingy critic and for her reputation and personal generosity, plus she writes a good hand. How about this: “a bit of a wild monster, and will make great old bones.”

For Renée, I checked out Fanti Poggio Torto Toscana Rosso. Took some looking, as they were formerly known as Tenuta San Fillipo. I had no notes on them. However, at $12-$14/bottle, what do you have to lose? I normally eschew Tuscano Rosso because the label means nothing. Tuscan Red can be made of any blend of red from the region of Tuscany. That said, when asked, I will usually advise to go with Antinori, vintage dependent of course. Antinori was awarded IGT status in 2001. They only employ grapes from their own estates, controlling from terroir through sale. These are fermented in stainless, go thru malo and are then held in oaken barriques. The 2014, for example was bottled in 2016. The ‘14 runs around $17. Blended of mostly Sangiovese with Cab, Sauv, Merlot and Syrah, it is dark ruby-colored with a bouquet of red fruit, vanilla and a mild hint of pepper. Proper acidity and smooth tannins provide structure to support the nose and flavors. Clean, long finish. I liked the 2011 and ‘12 better, but you may not be able to find those vintages. I’d much rather see you try Tenuta Bibbiano Chianti Classico Vigna del Capannino Riserva 2015 around $25. I know it’s an upsell, but it is definitely worth the candle. Spectator loved this with big points. So do I, 91 McD. A bright cherry-red, 100 percent Sangiovese, lovely mixed bouquet of cherry, plums, thyme and some mineral notes. On the palate, the cherries and mineral acidity are supported by integrated tannins. Wonderful food wine.

Joy, the 2010 Ducru Beaucaillou that I recommended at 96 points and $155 is now selling for $300 in Claymont. Ready starting next year, it is outstripping its high expectations. Just think, had you bought a case, you could sell half and get six nearly free bottles. Will continue to improve thru minimum 2030. Since you are in this market, take a look at the 2005. I saw a case of 12 for $2,800. Will cellar thru 2040. It is young until 2021. Think when it reaches maturity it will be “best ever” and will outstrip the 2009s in price. Today’s 2009 is $399/btl or $3,800/12.

Those who are price reluctant can get a very good look at Ducru under $130. This is from St. Julien, located between Paulliac and Margaux and due to its proximity to the estuary, has a slightly more moderate climate, +3° C. Buy the 2012, (non)atypical blend, 91 percent Cab Sauv and 9 percent Merlot, which spent 18 months in new oak, wait two years. This is a 94 McD with plenty of fruit, blackberries, currants, with hints of oak, smoke, tobacco and graphite. Full-bodied with more ripe fruit and above-average supporting frame of acidity and tannins. Excellent balance and elegant finish.

Regulars are aware I respond to all email. Occasionally certain requests are general enough to warrant a review. Contact me at chjonmc@yahoo.com. Enjoy the shank of summer!