Some special-occasion picks and catchy names on review

Happy days for McDs. Our first granddaughter, Palmer, was born Sunday. All is good! We celebrated with some Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut. This is one of our go-to, everyday, Sonoma sparkler choices, 89 McD around $15. GF produces several levels of sparkling wine from both Sonoma and Napa, plus GF Etesian-labeled Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which consistently rate 87-89 depending on vintage, and can be found under $20. The GF Sonoma Brut is a very pale-green/gold wine with prolific, persistent, tiny bead. Aromatics are pear, green apple, toast and citrus nuance. These repeat on the palate with a mineral back note. A long, clean finish shows a hint of ginger and toast. As with most NV sparklers, the profile is fairly consistent. Although the other labels for GF may also appeal, I choose the Sonoma Brut because, in addition to pleasing my palate, It is fairly priced, showing well against most in the under-$25 range. 

Estancia Pinnacles Ranches Sauvignon Blanc 2018 from Monterey, Calif., was a delightful surprise at $13, 88 McD; it compares favorably to the 2014. Pale straw-colored, opens to tropical fruit, grapefruit, lemongrass aromas. Trop fruit continues with citrus, mineral notes and a bright acidity frame. This is an SB that goes well with fresh fish, oysters, asparagus. Lay some down now and keep it until the local asparagus comes in. We shared a bottle with some friends. Although the “grass” was less than optimal, the wine still carried. It also goes very well with mild curry dishes.

I was initially attracted to Barrel 27 McPrice Myers due to their catchy names such as Bull by the Horns, High on the Hog, Right Hand Man, Pound for Pound, Beautiful Earth, and Sel de la Terre (salt of the earth). I’ve been doing a look back because the large tastings have pretty much dried up. In my notes from a January 2020 tasting (you could still rub elbows in crowded rooms back then and our governor wasn’t cowering in a sterile room), I spied a gem I hadn’t reported yet. High on the Hog 2017 was an excellent 91 McD under $20. It’s a blend of 40 percent Syrah, 30 percent Grenache, 22 percent Mourvèdre, and the balance Petite Sirah and Viognier, aged in 50 percent new oak. Dark and inky with fruit, violets and black pepper, plus oak-driven spice on opening said it needs time. On the palate, blackberry and dark chocolate are supported with appropriate acidity and firm tannic grip. Those who enjoy Cotes du Rhone GSM and are tired of being ripped off may wish to look into High on the Hog.

Their self-proclaimed flagship blend Beautiful Earth is another GSM with 12 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 2 Clairette Blanche added, McD 92 around $40. As you may imagine, this is a complex wine. It spent 20-35 days on matte and was barrel aged 20 months. McPrice notes read: “Marionberry (a type of blackberry normally trained as a bush), dark leather, smoked plums, blueberry/peach cobbler, acacia flower, lavender, creme brûlée, red-eye gravy, violet, ripe olive, hoisin, currant paste, and melted licorice.” Folks, I must admit that I could only differentiate about 2/3 of these. Let me know how you make out. Drink a bottle now but keep one a few years. A powerful, complex wine for its price. RP likes these; he wrote, “McPrice Myers continues to fashion character-filled, high-quality, yet value-priced wines.”

Drinkhacker Chris Null opened with, ”One expects a slap in the face with a butter-slathered oak stave” for the Far Niente Estate Napa Chardonnay 2018. He then tried to smooth the edges. My retort, after sampling the wine: a Null Hack indeed. In the days of lean, astringent, “food wine” Chards, Far Niente has kept with its tradition of big and buttery with oak that is smooth, round, and made for drinking and savoring. When I want lean food Chardonnay, I’m going to William Fèvre Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons 2018, McD 93. The 2018 Far Niente, McD 91 under $55, is very lovely for my palate, although not quite as wonderful as the 2013, McD 93 but not findable lately. Do not confuse with their Cave Collection, which runs about $30. The 2018 Estate is juicy, smooth and buttery. Look for citrus, melon, and floral aromas of honeysuckle and gardenia, plus roast nuts and barrel spice. Finishes long and smooth; flavors repeat aromas.