Sometimes the family stories are as delightful as the wines

Let’s look at Cabs that are top quality and very affordable. Not easy but entirely possible. When considering quality and affordable from California, CK Mondavi comes immediately to mind. I was fortunate to meet both Peter and Robert Mondavi in 1968, shortly after RM had founded his eponymous winery, the first new Napa winery since Prohibition. I still remember the business battle between the Mondavi Bros. over Bob’s “Wine as art” European pricey, and the more conservative Cali terroir, fair value, agriculture and business model of Peter. The list of their innovative changes to the U.S. wine scene is prolific. Robert placed one of the first modern-day, famous woman winemakers, Zelma Long, in 1970. Read a short comprehensive report on the women of California winemaking since 1882: https://webpages.scu.edu/womenwinemakers/facts.php.

Robert and Peter inherited a thriving business from their father Cesare. The family purchased the Charles Krug winery 1943, before they created the CK Mondavi and Family line in 1946. Anyhow, the story is very interesting. Those with time can read this short reveal from Vivino: https://www.vivino.com/wine-news/the-family-feud-that-juiced-the-rise-of-the-napa-valley. Most readers would probably find Robert Mondavi’s autobiography, “Harvests of Joy,” a fascinating look at the modern-day revival of the Napa Valley wine industry. I was just beginning my long restaurant career. Once I tricked my way into management, I became an avid supporter of both Mondavi and Krug on my wine lists. Due to that and eventually winning several WS awards and best-of recognitions, I had the opportunity to meet the brothers on several occasions at various events in Cali and NYC. I’m happy to report that after many years at odds, these two dynamic men laid their differences aside, as did Jacob and Esau, and reconciled. 

CK Mondavi Family California Cabernet Sauvignon, 87 McD plus 2 price points, formerly labeled Wildcreek Canyon, can be found around $10 for 1.5L and around $7.50 for 750 ml. 2018 is their recent release. On most shelves now is the 2017, a blend of 76 percent Cab, 7 percent Ruby Cab, 4 percent Syrah, 3 percent each Petit Sirah and Zin, plus 2 percent Petit Verdot and Merlot. Dark reddish-purple, it opens to berries and oak. On the medium- to full-bodied palate, look for varietal notes, plus cherry and blackberry with hints of oak-driven spice. The fruit, balanced by appropriate tannin and acidity, carries through a long, clean finish. Needs to sit in glass or decant, as initial nose appears slightly sour. This label produces Merlot, Zin, Chard, Pinot Grigio, Muscato, Sauv Blanc and White Zin in the $7 range. An affordable introduction to California varietal wines.

For $11, Three Thieves Cali Cab rates a solid 88 McD. Fruit nose, cherry and plum flavors, well-balanced tannin/acidity frame. This is a Trinchero Family label. Bogle delivers a serviceable, full-bodied Cab under $10. I’ve seen cases advertised at $107. The 2016 rates 87 McD. Look for plum, black cherry nose and fruit flavors accented with dark chocolate and oak spice on the full-bodied palate. The 2019 is being offered at $13; boglewinery.com has a store locator function that is very useful.

Those going near a Trader Joe’s may try to find a 2017 Rutherford Lane Cab. It’s exclusive to them. Mixed bouquet of blackberry, plum, barrel spice, leather and anise evolves to berries accented with vanilla and barrel spice on the palate. Slightly tannic says it will age. Balancing acidity is on the money, with hints of Rutherford dust in its long finish. Under $20, 90 McD. Great value for a Rutherford Cab. Similar would be $40 plus. Over the years, I have found that Trader Joe’s wine exclusives are truly bargains.

No list of value West Coast Cabs is complete which doesn’t include Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells. Consistently comes in 88-90 McD and findable around $16.Try to locate the 2016, 90 McD. Bouquet of ripe blackberry, barrel spice, vanilla and coffee. On the palate blackberry, mocha, with oak notes surrounding the fruit. Fruit, spice, vanilla and mocha continue through the long, clean finish. The 2017 rated 86, my worst review of them since 2007. The 2015 also rates 90 points. A caveat – although I normally don’t write wine I rate less than 87, it is due to the abundance of those rating higher. My ratings consider price, which is somewhat unique in the trade. As I am a man of limited means, I find issues such as relative value germane to critique. I have learned that a mixed $500 case of 92-94-point wine provides far more enjoyment than a single 100-point bottle for the same price. I’d also rather own a Schroeder than see a Goya.