Spanish wines offer choices for every palate

I enjoy the fall. How about you? After last week’s column appeared, I received a brief note from Tom, who politely chastised me for the comment on criminal activity in Sicily. He felt the comment was a misplaced stereotype. If any other readers thought I harbor anti-Italian prejudices, please don’t let my name confuse you. My loving grandparents and step-grandparents from 10 years old immigrated from Italy at the turn of the 20th century. I am 100% certain I harbor no anti-Italian sentiments. Nevertheless, if I offended any others, please accept my apologies. Another reader, Jim, sent a copy of an ad for Vino Sano Grape Brick being sold during Prohibition. The directions explained, “After dissolving the brick in a gallon of water, do not place the jug in a cupboard for 20 days, because then it will turn into wine.” Peggy Raley-Ward, a true longtimer, let me know the pick and crush is on at Nassau Valley Vineyards. She also informed me that Welch of PBJ fame also entertained this market with #10 cans of grape juice with detailed directions on the back, “How to make wine.” The headline said, "You will be breaking the law if you do the following. Do not follow these instructions."  Mark sent a picture of his Delaware tag which reads WYNEAUX. These are some examples of the reasons I enjoy writing the column. Thanks to all for your comments and criticisms. 

I had the enjoyable opportunity to sample some Bodegas Ramon Bilbao Spanish wines last week. The 2020 Albarino was quite refreshing. Look for a mixed bouquet of pineapple, peach, passionfruit and floral back notes. On the palate, peach/apricot with flint/mineral backbone. It finishes very cleanly with the fruit palate repeating; 13% ABV, 88 McD under $18. The Crianza (Tempranillo) DOCa 2017 rates 91 McD under $19. This needs some time but has potential. Flavors of cherries, plums with barrel-driven tobacco and smoky flavors; proper supporting minerally acidity; slightly tannic but dark cherry color says it will come into balance. The Rioja Reserva 2015 is blended of 90% Tempranillo and 5% each Mazuelo and Graziano; it is just entering its window. Waiting a year or two will greatly improve. Dark garnet, good legs, plums, berries and barrel spice nose, it is full-bodied with oak and berries on the palate, and a clean finish, 91 McD under $30.

Tim Atkins commented that they have been dialing back the oak since Rodolfo Bastida took the reins in 1999. I agree it is a great idea, since so few are patient enough to allow those inky, dark-purple, huge flavor fruit/oak bombs to come together. Or the time-is-money Johnny Inkslingers and modern-day business needs won’t allow longtime cellaring and bottle aging that these require prior to release. If you find the 2014, it is slightly better with smoother tannins and ready 2020-30. The 2010 Gran Reserva DOCa Tempranillo is running out of time and tough find, so I bought a 2012, which is also an award winner and in the same range as the $30 ‘10. A blend of 90% Temp, and 5% each Garnacha and Graziano, it is aged 30 months in American oak, then spends another three years in cellar after being bottled. Difficult to find but doable. Goes with roast red meat especially lamb. Look for ripe black fruit, tobacco, leather, cacao and barrel spice nose. Mixed berry, chocolate, vanilla, and balsamic flavors, long finish cleaned up with balancing acidity and fine tannin frame.

Ramon Bilbao is one of the best-known Bodegas in Spain. I read recently they are the top seller to bars and restaurants there. They produce a very wide variety of terroir-driven wines. Here is a comment from Sr. Bastida: “Winemaking can be like painting. You can use a big brush and a big pot of one colour to obtain something that’s pretty bland and uninteresting ... or you can use a small brush, with lots of small pots of different colours to give character and complexity.” That pretty much captures the diversity of their production and explains their success. Kind of broad brush, but considering vintages, generally speaking, Ramon is a safe label for those who wish to learn Spanish.