Spice up your life with a dash of paprika

Last week, Marty Tarr sent an email asking about a recent recipe for shrimp chowder. She noticed that the ingredient list included red pepper flakes, but didn't specify how much. For something as spicy as this, I would typically say "to taste" or "if desired." In most recipes, treat the absence of an indicated amount as license to add as much (or as little) as your preferences dictate.

Marty's other question had to do with instructions for adding one teaspoon of paprika, which gave her version of the chowder far too much heat. This started me thinking about paprika (of course) and wondering if I should have been clearer about which type was expected. And the next question - how many different kinds of paprika are there?

Let's back up a step - what is paprika? This powdered spice is made from dried, ground sweet pepper pods. Depending on the variety of peppers and processing techniques, the color can range from bright red to dull brown with flavor profiles from sweet and mild to spicy to bitterly hot. Just as with jalapeño peppers, the more seeds and ribs included, the hotter the effect.

Sweet paprika typically has no mid-rib or seeds, while hot paprika will typically have some. Hot paprika may also combine sweet peppers with bonnet peppers or cayenne for added heat. The most common paprika is from Hungary where it's considered the national spice. In the photo, the red tin in the middle is called Szeged and features a drawing of that Hungarian city's cathedral.

The peppers in Hungarian paprika are harvested, sorted, toasted and blended to create different varieties. In all, there are eight specific types, each with some degree of rich, sweet-red-pepper flavor, but they diverge widely in pungency and heat. Those that are sharp or hot will be labeled as such, while the most popular sweet variety is likely what is called édes nemes or "noble sweet."

If Marty's paprika was a hot Hungarian paprika, it's no wonder her first spoonful of chowder might have burned her mouth, as an entire teaspoon would have been far too much for the recipe. This is a dish where we needed to use a sweet Hungarian-style paprika.

The other explanation for Marty's experience might be that she used hot Spanish smoked paprika or pimentón,which is an entirely different spice. This traditional seasoning comes from slowly drying ripe, red chile peppers over smoldering holm-oak fires for two weeks or longer. When ground, the resulting powder has a rich, smoky aroma and dark color.

In the photo, there are two types of pimentón. On the left is sweet or dulce smoked paprika, sold by the Carmencita spice company (named after the girl with a curl in the upper left corner of the tin). On the right is a picante or spicy pimentón from the La Vera region, sold by Caballo de Oros (golden horse). This has earned Denominación de Origen Protegida or DOP designation, indicating it's manufactured according to strict standards.

When I opened the Hungarian paprika and the sweet smoked paprika, there wasn't much aroma. This is typical of sweet paprikas, which need to be slightly heated to release flavor and impart color. You can bloom the spice in a dry skillet if you plan to sprinkle it over deviled eggs or stir it into a liquid ingredient in your recipe.

When I opened the tin of piquant pimentón, the smoky fragrance was intense and quite sharp. If you're using this, always add it later in the cooking process. Store all types of paprika in airtight containers, protected from light. And, when the recipe author neglects to specify which type of paprika, reach for something sweet, just to be safe.

I've included a recipe for the way I typically make goulash with paprika. Of course, if you search the internet you'll find hundreds of recipes that all claim to be the only authentic version. The chicken dish is one I made during a cooking class at the Culinary Institute of America, and it has quite a bite. Thank you again to Marty for asking about paprika.

Hungarian Goulash

4 slices bacon
1 chopped onion
2 minced garlic cloves
2 T sweet Hungarian paprika
1 1/2 lbs cubed beef
1/2 t caraway seeds
1 peeled, chopped parsnip
3 C beef stock
2 sweet banana peppers
1 red bell pepper
4 chopped Roma tomatoes
1 peeled, diced russet potato (optional)
salt, to taste

Chop the bacon into 1/4-inch pieces and place in a large Dutch oven. Slowly cook over medium-low until slightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add onion and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about a minute. Remove pan from heat and add paprika; stir to coat vegetables completely. Add caraway seeds, beef and parsnip; stir thoroughly. Pour in broth and bring to a boil; reduce heat to low and simmer gently for 90 minutes. Remove the stems and seeds from the peppers. Slice the banana peppers into 1/2-inch rounds; chop the red pepper into 1-inch pieces. Add peppers, tomatoes and potatoes to the pot; increase the heat to medium and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 30 minutes. Season to taste with salt and serve over egg noodles. Yield: 6 servings.

Chicken Chilindron*

1 T olive oil
1 lb boneless, skinless chicken thighs
1/2 t salt
2 T brandy
1 T olive oil
1 C diced onion
1/2 C diced yellow bell pepper
1 C diced red bell pepper
1/4 C julienne Serrano ham
2 minced garlic cloves
3 seeded, diced plum tomatoes
1/2 C chicken stock
3/4 t piquant pimentón**
salt & pepper, to taste
chopped parsley for garnish
toasted bread slices

Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium. Cut the chicken into 1-inch pieces and add to the skillet. Season with 1/2 t salt and sauté for about 2 minutes. Add brandy to the pan and flambé. Remove chicken to a plate with a slotted spoon. Add 1 T olive oil to the pan and stir in onion, peppers and ham.

Cook over medium, stirring often, until slightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Return chicken to pan; add tomatoes, stock and pimentón. Cover and simmer over medium low for about 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve in shallow bowls garnished with chopped parsley and toasted slices of crusty bread. Yield: 8 appetizer servings. *Adapted from the Culinary Institute of America - Spain and the World Table. **Spicy smoked Spanish paprika.