Summer’s bounty – the upside of ‘get it while it’s hot’

On your next visit to the Historic Lewes Farmers Market (or any of the wonderful growers’ markets in our area) you’ll see lots of examples of what’s on the plate in the photo: corn, tomatoes and peaches. This is prime season for the favorites of the summer season and the perfect time to find ways to enjoy them at their freshest – just picked and perfectly ripe. 

When you bring them home, it’s easy to find ways to serve them together, as in this plated salad. Peppery arugula is a perfect foil to the juicy sweetness, in this case, crescent slices of tomato and peach, with kernels of corn. The dressing could not be simpler: a few splashes of rice wine vinegar and lemon juice. Seasonings are basic: freshly ground pepper and scattered crystals of Maldon salt.

Those of you who have never tried this specialty salt have missed something special. The pyramid-shaped crystals have been harvested by hand in the town of Maldon since 1882. Located on the Blackwater estuary in Sussex, England, Maldon has a unique topography that lends itself to salt production. It’s now run by the fourth generation of the Osborne family, whose artisanal salt is prized by chefs.

But why salt on fruit? Salt suppresses bitter flavors, encouraging our taste buds to recognize more of the inherent sweet, fruity notes. Of course, this is not to say we should salt our peaches as we would french fries, but just a delicate sprinkle of flakes rubbed between your fingertips will be enough to do the job. Try it on cantaloupe, watermelon, grapefruit or sliced peaches.

Another thought about this mixture is the murky history of the tomato’s standing as fruit or vegetable. Botanically, of course, the tomato is considered the fruit of the plant for the edible (and succulent) fleshy material covering its seeds. Vegetables are defined from an agricultural perspective as plants cultivated for food. Legally, the tomato is classified as a vegetable, after an 1893 Supreme Court ruling clarified import tariffs.  

Finally, some notes on how to serve this salad. iI is quite lovely as composed on the plate, with all the colors arrayed around the bright-green arugula. The main challenge is managing the equitable distribution of dressing ingredients. An alternative would be to whisk together your dressing in a serving bowl, then add the ingredients and toss gently to coat.

I’ve included a recipe for a tomato-peach salad with goat cheese dressed in a Balsamic vinaigrette and a recipe for a tomato-corn soup from my neighbor Ann Case. She remembers this soup from her childhood summers, when the abundance of corn on the cob and garden tomatoes would be simmered into a delightfully light soup. In it, the simple ingredient of boiled corn cobs makes an appearance as the liquid backbone.

If you’ve ever cut kernels from an ear of corn, you’ve surely noticed the milky juice that seeps out. This is not just found inside the kernels, but also within the cobs. This is a magical flavor source that will create a rich corn essence in your soup when reduced by half before adding the remaining ingredients. Although it does require using the stove in the summer, the results are well worth it.

Corn and Tomato Chowder

Scrape corn kernels from cobs, reserving corn. Place cobs in a large pot and cover with water. Simmer for 1 hour; remove cobs and reduce liquid by half. Scrape cobs again, retaining any kernels. Add all kernels to the pot. Stir grated onion into the pot. Peel, seed and chop tomatoes; add to the pot. Stir in butter and milk. Simmer until heated through. Season to taste with salt and pepper Yield: 6 servings.

Tomato Peach Salad

In a serving bowl, combine peaches, tomatoes and onion; set aside. In a measuring cup or small bowl, whisk together olive oil, vinegar and orange juice. Pour dressing over bowl and toss gently to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish with shredded basil, pecans and goat cheese. Yield: 4 servings.