Time in storage often melds wines into winners

Finally got around to a bottle of Roederer Estate L’Ermitage 2015 from Anderson Valley, Calif. that’s been languishing on my to-do review list since February. This is a tete de cuvee only made in exceptional years of 52% Chardonnay and 42% Pinot Noir, oak aged about 6 years, with 4% reserve wines added. Very pale golden with tiny prolific bead opened to yeasty, hazelnut roasted pecans and a hint of brioche. On the palate, quince, bright acidity and baked tart apple. It has a creamy mid-palate and clean acidity with a dry finish. At around $60, this is a very good buy.

94McD Roederer Estate was founded in 1982 by one of France’s best-known producers of Champagne. Louis Roederer Cristal Millisieme is one of the well-known Champagnes worldwide, usually rating mid to high 90s. They age very well and as an example the 96 pt 2013 sold for $65, and is now at $260 per bottle. It just entered its drinking window through 2035 at least. These are aged 6 years on yeast and another 8 months in their bottle before release. 

Castello del Terriccio  Lupicaia, Super Tuscan has run a hot hand the past three releases, ranging from 94 from Decanter World to 96 from Falstaff. I happily anticipated sampling a bottle, and was not disappointed. Both the 2015 and 16 were 96 McD. They need time. I also had their Tassinaia labels 2016 and 17. Both were very good value at $35 and 90 McD. 2016 was a wonderful vintage in Tuscany. This blend of 33% Sangiovese, 33% Cab and 33% Merlot was aged 22 months in French oak. Dark ruby red with garnet highlights, it shows aromas of cherry with barrel spice and balsamic notes. It is well-structured with balanced acidity and tannin. A long finish repeats fruit and spice. I seasoned a Chateaubriand with Italian dressing roasted at 450F and it was delicious. James Suckling rated this 92 pts.

Bodegas Muga Seleccion Especial Riserva DOCa 2016, 94 McD under $40 is lovely, a Tempranillo from an excellent vintage in Rioja Alta, Spain. A blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha (Grenache), 7% Mazuelo and Graciano. 26 months in oak barrels, coopered on site. Bodegas Muga is recognized as Rioja Alta’s top producer. Founded in 1932, Haro, one of Spain’s top viticulture towns, they also employ their own yeast for fermentation. One of a few Bodegas left that employs these time-tested methods of production. They also rack the wine every four months, clarify with egg whites before bottling and age one year before release. All the egg and lees are returned to the vineyards as compost. RP 94, Atkins 95 is dark purple with a violet rim, great legs and high viscosity found on the palate. The nose shows ripe fruit, and dusty notes leading to an elegant, balanced palate with smooth tannins and proper minerally acidity supporting more fruit through a persistent clean finish. 

Kathryn Hall, Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019 shows classic aromas of black pepper, dried herbs, lavender, blackberry and fresh earth. Intense focused flavors of dark chocolate with crushed gravel and more blackberry back notes. A long, powerful and clean finish completes the package. Parker 95-97 and price popped to $225. The 94 pt, 2018 is $188. I think patient purchasers may get in under $200 on the 19 Hall, Eighteen Seventy Three Cab 2018. At $90 it is the better buy. It’s a bit tannic, but color says keep me a few years. Complex nose of blackberry, cassis and plum with hints of wet gravel, turned earth and tobacco. Palate shows more blackberry, with nutmeg, cocoa and clove. This is a big wine.  Two years in storage will see it meld into winner.