Beringer Vineyards in Napa is the longest continuously operating winery in California, about 140 years. Their new-release Knights Valley Reserve Sonoma Cab 2020, 92 McD, $45, follows on the heels of the 94-point 2019, $48. It’s blended of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 7% Cab Franc, 2% Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot, which longtime readers may remember is a typical Bordeaux profile. In Cali, blends can be named with a varietal descriptor if they contain 75% or more of its juice in the blend. Be careful here, since Beringer produces several levels of these Sonoma beauties as well as a selection from Napa. Sonoma County is my destination for Beringer’s best QPR Cabs. This column's job is to discover and describe good-value, ready-to-drink wines that are we findable on local shelves. In a recent article from Bottlestop in NJ, their suggestion was to buy both vintages to compare them. I did! The 2020 shows ripe currant, cherry, earth and barrel spice aromas. On the juicy palate, fruit shines through supported with smooth tannins, mineral acidity and pie spices. The finish shows hints of plum, dark chocolate and licorice. Quite smooth for a young Cab. The 2019 is the better buy if you find any left. Purple with garnet tint, lovely bouquet of black currant, cherry, tea and dried flowers accented with toasted oak, tobacco and dust. On the broad, rich palate, dark fruit continues, add in roses, cinnamon, vanilla and allspice; slightly tannic, exhibiting aging potential, and a proper acidic frame says it will improve.
You know I am a follow-the-winemaker guy. Beringer’s long history from Myron Nightingale to Ed Sbragia to Laurie Hook to Mark Beringer ended when Treasury Wine Estates acquired Beringer. Treasury is one of the largest wine companies in world, TSX on the Australian Securities Exchange. Among its 18 holdings, in addition to Beringer Vineyards, some of the most well-known labels are: Penfolds, Seppelt, Etude, Beaulieu Vineyard, Stags’ Leap, Frank Family and Sterling. I am happy to report these continued to produce top-quality, fairly priced product after they were absorbed. Beringer’s top-of-line Napa will set you back well over $100 with the 95-point Steinhauer Ranch Napa and the Private Reserve Napa around $165. While these seem like big numbers, when you consider the scheme of modern-era Napa Cabs of this class, blends with superstar winemakers from highly touted vineyards in desirable terroir, aged 18 months in mostly new French oak, then 16 months after bottling before release, they are bargain prices.
Paul Jaboulet Aine is another producer from the Rhone Valley I held in high regard. Good wine at fair prices when terroir permits. When I saw an ad for 2019 Paul Jaboulet Aine Viognier for $12, I thought it was a typo. In most vintages, these rate low to mid-80s McD, or In a good year like 2016, 88 McD. These are a real bargain, because 2019 was such a year. This viognier was chosen as best wine to pair with oysters at the Japanese Oyster Wine Contest. It also goes great with curried seafood. Worth shopping, a case can be found under $144. Vintage specific! Pleasing peach, citrus, white floral nose; sur lie aging provides depth and body. Bright acidity supports bouquet and provides a clean finish. An aside, Paul Jaboulet Aine, Negociant is the company name. Sold in 2006, now owned and run by the Frey family. Caroline Frey is president and oenologist there along with her other family holdings Chateau La Lagune in Bordeaux ,and part owner of Billecart-Salmon, the Champagne house.
Another oldy but goody, Louis Jadot Macon-Lugny Les Petites Pierres 2020 is a top White Burgundy, $22, 89 McD. Melon-peach nose, round mouthfeel, tropical fruit aftertaste with crisp acidity to cleanse the palate. Lovely food wine. Most Burgundy lovers are appalled at prices ranging into the thousands. These are driven by scarcity, less than 40 cases. RRV Chardonnay and Oregon Pinot Noir, anyone?
-
Email John at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
