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Wine

Trefethen Reserve Cab and Halo are rare treats

October 13, 2014

Try to get over to Pemberton Historical Park, in Salisbury, Md. Saturday, Oct. 11, or Sunday, Oct. 12, for the Good Beer Festival. Here is the site: www.goodbeerfestival.org/information.html. This is a fun time for those who enjoy good music, food and craft beer. Sorry for the late notice. Wednesday’s tasting was “the bomb" but you will need to tune in next week to learn why.

Want to wrap up Vintage Imports Philly tasting with a review of Trefethen 2004 Reserve Cab and Halo. These selections were also presented by doyenne Janet Trefethen. She presented Trefethen Cabernets: 1979; 1984 in magnum; 1997 Reserve in magnum; 2004 Reserve in magnum and the 2010 Halo. The wines shown were a rare treat and most are not available. You can find the 2004 Reserve and Halo, 2010. The 2004 Reserve scored 95 points, McD; came in at $42/ 750 ml Aug. 2008, and has run all the way to $256 by this August. Spent 33 months in French oak. Just approaching drinkability. Still dark color, huge fruit nose with dark berries, currants and five spice notes. Good frame, tannins a bit elevated, but enough raspberry and barrel spice to say this will hold up and improve. Parker gave it 92 points.

Halo blended of Cab 96 percent, Petit Verdot 3 percent and 1 percent Merlot spent 28 months in new French oak. This blend is a change from the traditional 92 cab 5 percent Petit Verdot and 3 percent Malbec. I always have a tough time reviewing these huge oaken, tannin bombs. My notes read very dark purple, Cab and vanillin nose with huge tannin, viscous legs, and good acidity. Needs a lot of time in cellar maybe seven to 10 years. These do not seem to improve in value as does the Oak Knoll Reserve, and I think it is because they come on in the $150-200 range. Although there is value here, as you all know, I would rather shop for better QPR.

Celler Capcanes Mas Donis Barrica 2012 is a great example of better QPR. RP rated 94 points.

It can be bought well under $14. Regulars know I am a fan of Celler Capcanes. One of my gurus, Stephen Tanzer, consistently rated them 88-90 points starting back in 2001. These don’t age well so only buy what you can drink over the next year or two, if you like them. A deep ruby, Grenache/ Syrah (30 percent) blend with a mixed nose of raspberry, kirsch, rose petals and mineral notes. On the palate medium body, red fruit, soft tannins and a bit of oak spice. Flowers and some licorice in the mineral finish. 92 McD.

Zachys late fall auction will be held Oct. 16 at Smith and Wollinsky in NYC. You may participate on line. Go here for info: www.zachys.com/auctions/Default.aspx?AuctionId=171.

Another consistent bargain is Columbia Crest Grand Estate Chardonnay. These unoaked food wines usually rate 87-89 points.

I looked into the 2011 due to a pairing I read, in Wild for Washington Wine, by William Pollard. He wrote of pairing the wine with a marinated well-done rack of lamb. I’m usually not a fan of well-done lamb and had a difficult time picturing the combo so I decided to give it a try. It was wonderful. You can find the write up, with recipe here. www.wild4washingtonwine.com/2013/10/columbia-crest-grand-estates-2012.html. Please be sure you have read the entire paper, ads and all before dashing off to the websites I provided today.

Best bargain for last, Dona Paula Estate Black Edition Malbec 2012, an Argentinean blend of Malbec 60 percent, Cab, 37 percent, Petit Verdot 3 percent, rated 94 by Suckling and touted by Reverse Wine Snob as well, I had to sample some.

My notes read: deep dark purple, aromas of plum, chocolate, nutmeg, red pepper and a hint mint. Fine tannin, medium body and a clean long finish. While I’m not a big fan of straight Malbec the blends are often very appealing. I think Suckling was a bit effusive but 91 and 2 price points seems right to me. Drink now.

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