Try a couple of headache-free reds
Dog days of summer? Not really! While Sandy was basking in air-conditioned luxury, I was “Sweatin for the oldies” in Grove Market. I don’t need Richard Simmons and those other perspiration promoters. This week several of you stepped into the kitchen to say Hi! No matter how busy I may look, I always have time to say hello. If you seem to be on ignore after an acknowledgement, I’m trying desperately to remember and organize the orders. The perspicacious will note the smoke and hear the clashing gears. Longtimers know I furiously chew gum while cooking. Trying to carry on an intelligent conversation in conjunction with those three activities is slightly beyond my capacity.
How about two reds that don’t give you a histamine problem or a headache? Just sampled them. So far, Veglio Barbera d’Alba and Dolcetto are unavailable in Delaware. A little pressure from wine stores can make this happen. Veglio recommends selling price at $16. I believe these are unique. Developed by Sebastian Ramello, a scientific consultant (www.lowhistamines.com/en/about-us) in partnership with Veglio, has produced the first-ever low-histamine wines. (The first two releases are classic Italian varietals - Barbera and Dolcetto.)
"The trick to making wines low in histamine, is really about finding the right grapes, growing them in certain kinds of soil, then using the proper sanitation techniques and fermentation methods,” writes Ramello. So far these are pasta, pizza and burger wines. Lots of fruit flavors and medium-light body. Mauro Veglio, a Piedmont producer, has been around for years. His Barbera 2011-12,13 have been rated in the 89-90 range. It will be interesting to watch this product develop. In the meantime you may wish to try any of his Baroli vintages 2005-10 All were rated 93 or better and can be had for around $70. The best of the lot are the 2010, 94 points, drink 2015-28. Tanzer, Jancis, Tony Gallons and Suckling have written these up favorably. I’m betting on Mauro Veglio to make a big go here. There are an estimated 4.5 million folks with histamine allergies.
Snooth Better Wines has been on a roll lately. Look up “How to avoid wine list agony” for fun and “Women are changing the wine industry” for elucidation. Both are worth the read.
Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes 2009 are on sale. An especially good deal for these 95-97-point beauties are the half bottles. Neal Martin of Wine Advocate wrote, ”One of the greatest wines ever produced from the estate, 98 points.” Smart buyers with disposable cash and a storage area would be very wise to buy a case of half bottles, four each 2007, '09, '10, '11, '13 and '14. If you have a good wine shop pal, they should be able to put this together by winter, under $1,100/case of 24, pay the mortgage holder and feed the kids. Single-bottle buyers expect to pay $50-plus. A case of 12 750s will run about $1,200 also. The 2009s are all about balance. They are viscous almost to unctuous, but the acidity saves the day. Opens to quince, pear, mango and butter nose. Rolls through the palate with creamy peach and ginger underscored with toasted coconut. The finish is very long with a pleasant aftertaste of quince, honey and tangerine. Should drink through at least 2025, 750L 2018-38. I’ve seen some 2001 around in the $110 range. Good buy for BBB.
I tout the Grand Wine Experience produced by Gary Fisch every year in New Jersey. I have been a delighted participant for years, along with whichever Little Mac was old enough and hadn’t broken into my stash of the good stuff recently. Folks, this may seem expensive at $80 but it is worth $1,000. Plus it is a charitable event. Take a look at the info page, www.garyswine.com/local/wayne.html. Go to Grand Wine Experience tab on left side of page. BTW this is not a paid tout for Gary Fisch, although he is a remarkable wine guy who has surrounded himself with many talented people. He is a truly generous patron to many charities. I promise if you go once it will remain on your calendar.
Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
