Upstate eatery sports lots of Elizabeths and some great music

Two of my favorite people here in The First State are Betsy and Ben Leroy, the owners and operators of Pizza By Elizabeths in Greenville. Far from being just an upstate phenomenon, PBE actually figures neatly into the business of eating right here in the Cape Region. Many years ago Betsy built, owned and operated the Pizza By Elizabeths in the ocean block of Baltimore Avenue in downtown Rehoboth Beach.

In 1995, Betsy Leroy purchased an old home on Baltimore Avenue across the street from where Café Azafran is now located. She demolished the old structure and replaced it with the space that now houses Eden restaurant. Betsy and a business partner (also named Elizabeth) installed location No. 2 of their upstate Pizza By Elizabeths restaurant in the brand-new building. More than 17 years ago, the two Elizabeths dialed things back to one location, and the original Pizza By Elizabeths in Greenville continues to be an unusual and particularly attractive restaurant. I never miss a chance to go there when I find myself traversing the northern hinterlands.

Betsy and her friend Elizabeth used to share a pizza recipe that their friends loved. I’ve written more than once that liking to cook for people in your home is probably the biggest reason to not open a restaurant. But the two Elizabeths (with Betsy’s 3-year-old and 9-year-old boys in tow) proved that that advice is not hard and fast. Their first location, opened in 1993, was just a few miles from the current spot on Kennett Pike in verdant and rather upscale Greenville. Located just a few minutes from Winterthur Museum and Longwood Gardens, a steady stream of visitors was virtually guaranteed. So much so, in fact, that after 15 cramped years, they found it necessary to move to the larger space.

The two Elizabeths wanted the place to be memorable and elegant - if not a bit campy. Walk into Pizza By Elizabeths and the first thing you see is a life-size statue of Betty Boop! Refocus your eyes, and huge images (in all variations of media) appear. Each and every one is, in Betsy’s words, a “famous Elizabeth.” Movie stars, TV personalities and even political notables are honored, including the Queen Mum, Elizabeth Montgomery, Betty Grable, and even Lizzie Borden and the Queen Elizabeth ocean liner.

A wall of bigger-than-life Elizabeths flanks a two-sided fireplace that divides the main dining rooms. The wall can be opened or closed to accommodate events and private parties. And the menu is no less Eliza-centric. For example, there’s the Barrett Browning (plain with cheese and sauce) followed closely in popularity by the Davis (blackened chicken, bacon, cheese and honey mustard). The cleverly conceived list continues with the Montgomery (sausage, peppers, roasted onions, pepperoni and mozzarella), and the Queen, sporting Betsy’s wildly addictive mushroom duxelles sauce, white chicken chunks and chives. Along with that deliciously decadent selection there are somewhat more healthy choices such as the Claiborne (pesto and chopped tomatoes) and the Arden, with rosemary onions, broccoli, tomatoes and cheese.

Even the bathrooms pay homage to her namesakes, with chandeliers, silver foil wallpaper and multiple images of Betties past and present. Ben Leroy works closely with his wife to keep things running smoothly. But he brings a lot more than pizza to the table: Longtime denizens of Dewey Beach will surely remember The Snap, the house band at the Bottle & Cork (before it was purchased by Alex Pires). Ben was lead singer and guitarist, and fans can still hear him perform every third Thursday at Pizza By Elizabeths. Now I know why that beautiful grand piano dominates the bar area.

Even better news is that Ben will be making a triumphant return to the Cape Region Saturday, Oct. 19, the Saturday of Jazz Fest weekend, when he joins 2nd Time Around trio at 11 a.m. on stage at Fork & Flask’s Saturday Jazz Brunch. In the words of La Vida Hospitality’s Josh Grapski and Chef Sean Corea, “It’s gonna be a blast.” (I’m so pleased to finally blame hyperbole on somebody else.)

We can no longer stroll down Baltimore Avenue to pick up a signature pie from the clever and very funny Betsy Leroy, but if you find yourself on Kennett Pike in Greenville, treat your taste buds – and your eyes - to her every day pizza party. And on the morning of Oct. 19, she and her talented husband Ben will be part of the music and brunchy fun right here at the beach at Fork & Flask on Coastal Highway.