Various cooking styles can incorporate zucchini

Although we’re barely into the month of July, the zucchini harvest has been plentiful. At groceries, roadside stands and farmers markets, you can find fresh, local zucchini. The name zucchini, or courgette in Europe, refers to several varieties of summer squash that range in color from pale to dark green. All zucchini are squash, but not all squash are zucchini.

Zucchini differ from other varieties of summer squash in both color and shape. Most zucchini are slender and straight, while yellow squash is thicker at the bottom and tapers toward the neck. You can also find a range of shapes from tiny pattypan and round eight-ball to the aptly named crookneck, as well.

This low-calorie, tender vegetable has been a staple in the diets of Central and South America for several thousand years. Some food historians attribute its arrival in this country to Italian immigrants in the early 20th century, perhaps because its name comes from the Italian word, zucchino.

Whether it came from lands to our south or from Europe, the modern vegetable bears little resemblance to its ancestors. The originals were larger with thick, tough rinds, bitter flavor and primarily cultivated for their seeds. We have years of hybridization to thank for the tender flesh and delicate flavor bred into the versions available today.

Zucchini have a thin, edible skin, creamy white flesh and tiny seeds running lengthwise down the center. Although they can grow over three feet long, zucchini are best harvested when they’re about six to eight inches in length and before their rinds harden like winter squash (e.g., pumpkins, acorn and butternut squash).

Since they don’t contribute much flavor on their own, cooking techniques for zucchini include many ways to capitalize on their neutrality to highlight bold, bright flavors from other ingredients in the dish. One example is the baked Parmesan zucchini in the photo.

Lengthwise slices of zucchini are lightly coated with olive oil, then dredged in a mixture of cheese and Italian herbs. They are baked until golden, spending their final moments under the broiler to brown the cheese. Unlike fried zucchini sticks, these are not crisp and crunchy, but tender and flavorful; you’ll find they droop a bit when you hold them at one end.

If these were breaded and fried, they could stand up to a hearty marinara sauce for dipping. Here, we’ve whisked together ranch dressing from a well-spiced combination of mayonnaise, sour cream and buttermilk. The hint of pink you see in the photo comes from paprika, which also adds a subtle, smoky touch.

Another way to assemble similar flavors would be to slice the zucchini into thin rounds and toss them in a skillet with olive oil, minced garlic and Italian spices. After turning the pieces a few times, as they begin to brown, sprinkle grated Parmesan to create a lovely crust over the top. Or wait to add the cheese until after you’ve stirred the golden zucchini into cooked pasta with a splash of olive oil.

A bright, refreshing side dish featuring zucchini is one I found in a cookbook I’ve had for almost 40 years, The Cuisine of the Sun. The pages of the book are browning with age and the spine has long since cracked, but the recipes capture the traditional flavors of Nice and Provence. This simple combination of zucchini, parsley and lemon zest is a winner.

Baked Parmesan Zucchini Sticks

2 medium zucchini
1/3 C grated Parmesan
1/4 t basil
1/4 t thyme
1/4 t oregano
1/8 t garlic powder
1/8 t onion powder
1/8 t paprika
1 T olive oil

Preheat oven to 375 F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil; set aside. Wash, dry and trim the ends from the zucchini. Cut into quarters lengthwise; set aside. In a small bowl stir together Parmesan and herbs; spread out on a piece of waxed paper. Pour the olive oil onto another sheet of waxed paper. Dip the cut sides of the zucchini spears into the olive oil to coat very thinly. Dip each piece into the cheese mixture and place skin side down on the baking sheet. Cook until golden, about 15 minutes. Change the oven temperature to broil and cook the zucchini another 2 to 3 minutes. Serve with ranch dressing for dipping.

Ranch Dressing

1/2 C mayonnaise
1/2 C buttermilk
1/4 C sour cream
1/2 t parsley
1/2 t chives
1/2 t onion powder
1/2 t garlic powder
1/2 t Worcestershire sauce
1/4 t paprika
1/4 t salt
1/8 t pepper

Whisk ingredients together until combined. Store in a covered container in the refrigerator until ready to use.

Grated Zucchini*

4 small zucchini
1/2 t salt
1 1/2 T olive oil
1/4 C minced parsley
1/2 t lemon zest
salt & pepper, to taste

Wash, dry and trim the ends from the zucchini. Grate them with the coarse side of a box grater onto a flour sack-style kitchen towel (not terrycloth). Sprinkle with salt and allow to drain for 30 minutes. Fold the towel over and gently squeeze out as much liquid as possible; set aside. Heat olive oil in a skillet over medium. Add zucchini and parsley; sauté, tossing with a wooden spoon until golden, about 15 minutes. Stir in lemon zest and season to taste with salt and pepper. Yield: 4 servings. *Adapted from Cuisine of the Sun.