Vintage Imports tasting is a treasure trove for upcoming columns

The Vintage Imports tasting last Wednesday was terrific. I look forward to this event each year not only for the opportunity to sample so many wonderful wines but mainly to visit with longtime pals, who are in an end-of-season great mood. So many restaurant and wine shop folks from the Cape Region were there, it would take the entire column to name them. There were 79 producers showing their wares, well over 500 selections. Although I had my able, well-trained acolyte Marguerite in tow, there was no way to schmooze and sample all. We sat down and sifted through the options. More than half the wines had already been reviewed, and by passing on the “likker,” we eliminated another 45 selections, reducing our possibilities to about 200 wines. No way! We bifurcated our list, promising to take notes to cross reference or to alert each other to especially fine products, then sallied forth. We did not complete the circuit. Nevertheless, I garnered grist for several weeks’ columns. 

Those who frequent tastings are aware they may be messy events. Snorting, slurping, swishing and using the spittoon, while being regaled with stories of terroir, winemakers and their practices will often lead to soiling the shirt front of the most adroit sampler. Always wear a paisley shirt with wine colors in its pattern. Avoid white duck, khaki and buck shoes. Maroons and browns are good choices. Wearing a bib would be appropriate, hence the term wine bibber, but I don’t remember ever seeing anyone employing the practice. I think the word is gauche, which as a lefty I deplore. It’s also smart to dine an hour or so before arrival. Although there is usually a lovely buffet, the food is often quite rich. Don’t trick yourselves. Serious swillers, even those who use the spittoons, will snort enough fumes to acquire quite a buzz. Fortunately, this event was held at Sugarhouse Casino where a large open porch with a splendid view of the river provides an ideal spot to take a deep breath to clear the fog of war. Sorry, I rattled on a bit there.

I wrote of visiting Trisaetum Winery in the heart of Ribbon Ridge, Oregon. At the time there was no availability in Delaware for their products. Currently, some of their wonderful wines can be had in Delaware without hiring Blackbeard or a multi-facial tat-sporting cartel member. Their Ribbon Ridge Dry Riesling 2018 is delightful. You will also be safe with the ‘15 and ‘17, and very lucky if you find a bottle or two of the 92 McD 2016. The 2012-15 Estate Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains were a run of 92-93-point McDs. Make sure the label reads Chehalem and not Yamhill or Coast Range. The Yamhill is a fine-quality product, but considering price proximity, the Chehalems are far better value.

I realize Gewurztraminer is polarizing, but there are few wines that better support spicy Asian, Central American and dishes that go with sauerkraut. The first table near the entry was Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars on Seneca Lake in the Finger Lakes region. As a transplanted New Yawker I had to stop to sample their Ice Wine, which was OK. It was their Gewurz, with passionfruit, papaya and hint of juniper aromas and spices, pear and grapefruit flavors with a spicy finish; and their Gruner Veltliner that won me over. Gruner notes: good value around $15 gets this to 87-88, 2 price points. Herbal citrus nose, peaches and tart green apple flavors with a hint of white pepper in the finish. Winemaker said goes well with artichokes, a tough pairing. I plan to try it. Barbara and I love chokes. I promise not to blabber so much next week. We only made it to table 2 today, so 65 more to go.

Old-time Cali Chard lovers should look for Harken Chardonnay 2018. Priced under $15, this pale-golden, winemakers’ art wine was barrel fermented and underwent malolactic fermentation, which is secondary fermentation that converts tart malic acid flavors to softer lactic acid (milk) but does not produce alcohol. Alcohol is produced in the primary fermentation and is driven by yeast. Occasionally occurs simultaneously. Malo adds buttery notes and sometimes a bit of spritz. Harken is my type of Chardonnay, with oak, apple, pear and yeasty aromas, a  round palate with buttered toast and crème brulée on its finish.