Virginia Governor’s Cup winners include a few surprises

Sometimes too much to drink is barely enough. More Virginia Governor’s Cup winners. Barboursville Vineyard is owned by the Italian producer Zonin 1821. Near Monticello, it is a worthy stop. In addition to a beautiful vineyard and winery, there is a well-regarded restaurant called Palladio, along with The 1804 Inn and Cottages. Barboursville Vermentino Reserve 2018 is a delicious seafood wine, 92 McD points around $20, 2 price points. A dry wine with lush body driven by seven months on stirred lees; tropical fruit and citrus aromas are supported by proper minerally acidity. Finishes long and clean. This lovely wine took a double gold at San Fran Chronicle competition and a gold in Virginia, verifying an old adage, “Reputation often improves with distance from home.” This award to the Governor’s Case was their third of the past eight vintages. I was surprised that no Viognier made it in 2020. Three whites making the round of 12 and two of them dessert wines – that’s a rare occurrence at most tastings.

Barboursville also won gold for Octagon 2017. Needs time! However, the Octagon XV 2014, a 56 percent Merlot Bordeaux blend with Petit Verdot, and Cabs Franc and Sauvignon, is Old World style, dark purple, almost black, surprising for a 6-year-old wine. In 2017, it won silver at IWC and Texsom, also gold in San Fran. The 2014 exceeds past reviews. Don’t let the $65-$70 price stand in your way. Still improving, it shows a complex bouquet of blackberry, currant, rose, chocolate and roast coffee. Concentrated fruit, cherry, currant repeat, riding crisp acidity and dusty tannins, 93 McD. The 2015 is also showing great promise. These need time, but you will be amply rewarded. If you can afford a mixed case, buy with their Cab Franc Reserve 2017. Nebbiolo 2015 won a bunch of golds, and all vintages of Octagon, 2012-15, are rated better than 90.

The Barboursville Paxxito 2015 took double gold at 2019 San Fran Chronicle. It is another well-made dessert wine, a blend of 50 percent Moscato Ottonel and Vidal employing the Passito method described last week. Golden amber with mixed bouquet of apricot, pineapple, pear, honey and almond, great balance of 16 percent residual sugar with acidity 0.85 percent pH and 13.5 percent alcohol says “cellar me.” Won at Governor’s Cup 2019.

Pollak Vineyards also took two places in the case, a credit to French-born winemaker Benoit Pineau, who has managed the vineyards and winemaking at Pollak for seven years. He currently manages Stone Tower Winery as well. These wines appear to be available only from the winery. Pollak Cabernet Franc Reserve 2017 is 100 percent CF and shows the expected cherry nose plus chocolate, saddle leather and briar hints. Cherry repeats on the palate with well-integrated tannins, 89 McD. The other winner is named Smuggler, and due to Petey and his Dem pals, that is what you will need to be. Fortunately, many are already masked, so load up Tonto and take a road trip. Pollak is also near Monticello. You should visit soon before angry youths arrive with the ol’ wrecking ball. The 2017 shows raspberry, tea, and oak spice aromas. The palate shows currant, more blackberry, a hint of pencil shavings riding ripe tannins and moderate acidity, $32, 90 McD.

Lake Anna Tannat, another winner, will appeal to those who enjoy bold tannins, elevated acidity and the puckery mouthfeel those induce. Tannat was typical of the Madiran AOP in the Pyrenees between France and Spain. It was brought to South America and found its best home in Uruguay. Chosen Wine Spectator No. 41 in 2017, Bodega Garzon Reserva Tannat 2015 can be had for $17. Tannat is bruited about as the healthiest red due to much higher levels of antioxidants, particularly resveratrol. While I can understand that the wine is made well, Tannat is not my cup of tea. I find this profile excerpted from winefolly.com, a wonderful, accurate source: “Ranges from red to black fruit with black licorice, vanilla, dark chocolate, espresso, smoke with pie spice and signature notes of cardamom. Typically, with more oak-aging, the more spice the wine will exhibit. The more maceration (time juice spends soaking on the stems seeds skins), the more intense the pigment and tannins exhibit in the final wine.”

Be careful about reading health books. You may die of a misprint.