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WINE

We can’t ignore Rosé sparklers

June 8, 2015

RIP Beau Biden. Mr. Biden was a staunch Progressive, a good family man, served the country well, both in the military and the state, in various capacities, a very accomplished man indeed. My sincere condolences to the Biden family and friends. Please write notes of condolence to VP Biden. He is also a dedicated family man. His family life has been rent with tragedy. I’m sure it will be covered on the other media so I will get on with this week’s column.

I thought I could cover the Rosé category in two weeks, but many wrote to ask why I had excluded the sparklers. Brain cramp! Let’s look at an Italian. Sassetti Pertimali Rosé Vino Spumante Colle Argento is a lovely pale pink with a decent bead, berry nose with berries and watermelon on the palate. An elegant wine with nice acid/fruit balance. Under $16, 88 points. You can’t go wrong with Domaine Chandon Brut Rosé 2015. Check out the label for a Fourth of July sparkler. I found the ad on Frugal McDougal. Regulars know I am attracted to names that are catchy, and this is a site I occasionally look to for ideas. This Rosé is a limited edition for summer 2015. You can buy a case under $220 or pay $21/bottle, but your wine store pal will need to move quickly to find the flag bottles. The regular label will be easily found. The wine is the same. Deep pink with some sunset rose highlights, it opens to a bouquet of strawberry, watermelon and ripe cherry. On the creamy palate, apple and peach notes with a pleasing spritz and balance, 89 McD. If you bought any of the Iron Horse Brut Rosé Sonoma County 2005, drink it off over the next year. It has peaked out, in my opinion.

Quick and dirty American Rosé: Adelsheim 2014 Oregon, juicy, scarlet-colored, delish, crowd pleaser, 100 percent PN, $25. Early Mountain Rosé 2014 Charlottesville, Va., at $22 is one of the first Virginia Rosé; I thought it needed some ink. Light salmon color, mineral dry, peaches, brightly acidic, but balanced, 88 McD. Charles and Charles Rosé 2013 has another flag label wrapped around a 90-point Washington state Rosé. Bright pink with a complex nose of strawberry, watermelon, herbs de Provence, minerals and citrus. Mumm Napa Brut Rosé, 90 points, $20. Nice bead, PN nose with hints of black cherry and strawberry, appropriate balance. Go upscale to Domaine Chandon Etoile Rosé from Cali’s North Coast,  93 McD when bought under $40. Salmon-colored with copper overtones, lovely small bead, plum, dark cherry nose with hints of nutmeg and coco. On the palate, raspberries and French toast; finishes with sharp acidity; good with shellfish. If you can find it, Jillian Johnson (Phoenix) produced a remarkable Rosé from her Onesta Bechthold winery in 2012. It is still holding up and goes for about $20; 93 McD. Elk Cove Vineyards PN Rosé 2014 is another Oregonian you can buy under $17. Completely dry European style, 88 points, tart, citrus, rhubarb and strawberry flavors with some cola on the finish. Dr. Konstantin Frank Celebre Rosé from Finger Lakes in New York has won a ton of medals over the years, but I think his recent release at under $20 was not a great buy, 83 points. It won best of class at Pacific Rim contest, so maybe it’s my palate.

Let’s end on a brighter note. Zachys recent auction exceeded its price estimate by over 25 percent. As you may remember I am a fan of being in this market. Recent returns have been pretty exciting. A very strong caveat is that it is a lot of work and fairly expensive to set yourself up, even for those who aren’t going the oak, copper, brass, brag cellar route. You need a secure humidity- and temperature-controlled space and the forbearance to keep your mitts off the goods. I did very well with the first two, but failed miserably on the third. Here are some results: 19 bottles of Harlan Estate 1995 brought $9,188, originally $450/bottle. I think the 2005 is worth a look at $600 if you have a 10-year window. Three bottles of Hundred Acre Ark 2007 went for $2,083. I have seen them offered recently at less than $500/bottle. For some reason the price for the 2005 has oscillated from $438 to $650 to $478 and now is just south of $700. Strange days indeed.


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