A weekend of family, food and great wine
True to plan, Vday and Bday went off without a hitch. We started Friday with the early arrivals, and rolled right on through the weekend. Large quantities of firewood, food and wine were consumed followed by “alkie” seltzer, vitamins and Tums. I love my job. It is the aftermath that may getcha down.
On Friday it was local lobsters steamed with asparagus side. Nothing I’ve sampled is better with lobster than Veuve Cliquot and other Chardonnay, especially those that are buttery and show tropical fruit. One of our guests brought some 2009 Snap Dragon Cali Chardonnay. It was reminiscent of the old style - tropical fruit, butter, oak and a bit of spritz. The 2009 are high value They can be found under $13 and I rate them 87 points. Be careful with other vintages. Some I have sampled were rather unpleasant.
Concha Y Toro is at it again as Casillero del Diablo just released the Devil's Collection, and I was able to sample them, thanks to my friends Jane and Kate at Creative Palate. The Devil’s Collection White 2013 is blended of 85 percent Sauvignon Blanc, 10 percent Chardonnay and the balance Gewurztraminer. They are aged eight months “sur lie,” allowing the fermented wine to stew with the yeast to help develop structure, mouthfeel and increased aromatic depth.) The lees also absorb oxygen when they die and begin to autolyse, which encourages a slower, controlled maturation. Batonnage - stirring of this wine slurry - encourages the absorption of peptides, amino acids, mannoproteins and fatty acids - usually causing a creamy, rich, mouthfeel profile. There are many other benefits to these processes. White 2013 definitely responded well. Pale lemon-colored, it opened to pineapple, honeysuckle and citrus nose. Pineapple repeated through the palate, enhanced by lemon and peach, riding a clean acid/fruit frame. Not for the faint of heart or the designated driver, this wine is 13.5 percent alcohol. Was delicious with littlenecks in garlic, wine and butter sauce.
I stuffed a leg of lamb with garlic, Super G “fresh thyme” that was actually quite aromatic, and Pecorino Romano, then slow roasted it to 130 degrees and let it stand 20 minutes. Just like the recipe read. Served it with a lamb demi made from the roast bones, garlic, more thyme, some leftover 2013 Malbec and pan drippings; sides of whipped spuds and a pan of sliced, roast onions mixed with spaghetti squash, heavy cream and more of the Romano grated. The Devil's Collection Red was poured into the glasses to breathe while we supped some homemade chicken rice soup with a crunchy carrot and celery garni.
As you recall, the global warming was in full cry, and the soup was a warming appetizer loaded with chicken.
I served it with a beautiful Charles Smith Lawrence Vineyard Columbia Valley Viognier 2011, which I bought along with the Kung Fu Girl, another Smith label I wrote of recently. This $40 93-point gem is delicious. Tanzer only gave it 91, WE and WS wrote 94. I rated it 91 and added two price points. Insider wannabes call this "the badge” due to the unique label. It looks like a road sign badge that encloses route numbers. Way insiders, however, know the Legendary Badge Limited Edition Red was produced by Buena Vista and resembled the six-pointed star badge associated with sheriffs and Marshall Dillon. Smith produces three stellar Viogniers. Of those, the Lawrence Vineyard has more floral and lemon profile. It also had more barrel time, adding oak-driven toast and a creamy mouthfeel.
When the lamb was served we all sampled the Devil's Collection Red. I was pleased to have allowed it to breathe. Another blended wine, it is composed of 60 percent Syrah, 25 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 15 percent Carmenere. Sixty percent of the wine is aged in American and French oak for nine months; the balance in stainless. I’m running out of room to explain the reason, but I will try to squeeze it in next week.
Another 13.5 percent alcohol. They are red with dark purple mask. A diverse bouquet of ripe black fruit, plum, and black cherry underlined by dark chocolate notes. The palate exhibits more fruit, chocolate and mild tannins with hints of toast and spice. Medium-long, clean finish. You can buy some under $14.
