Where there’s smoke, there’s fun

In the late 1700s, outdoor celebrations in the Caribbean and the West Indies often centered on an activity called “barbecue,” where whole animals were slowly roasted atop an earthen pit lined with glowing logs. History has concluded that all this pit digging became tiresome, and it’s no surprise that visitors to 18th century America described “barbecue” as a “large party that generally ended in intoxication.”

Without smoke, a brisket is just a roast; a pork shoulder is just a weird ham and a chicken is … well, just a chicken. But add smoke, some patience and a few hush-hush techniques, and all of a sudden you have BBQ. And some of the best I’ve found here at the beach is at Bethany Blues in Lewes and in Bethany Beach.

These guys are no strangers to the art and science of glowing hickory, and regional differences center mostly on the sauce. Eastern Carolina is known for its vinegar and pepper blend. Add brown sugar, red pepper flakes, molasses, butter, mustard and maybe some ketchup, and all of a sudden you’re in Western Carolina. Bethany Blues’ Carolina vinegar/pepper sauce goes all-out with brown sugar, mustard and butter.

Move toward the south, and the red sauces rule. Memphis style starts with a tomato base that turns darkly sweet with molasses, brown sugar, and maybe orange juice, onions, garlic and cinnamon. Of course, all that goodness has to be slathered on something smoky. Bethany Blues’ smokers, affectionately named Crocket & Tubbs and Li’l Reggie, use motorized dampers that keep the logs glowing and the meat sizzlin’ at the perfect temperature.

Bethany Blues can even bring the smoke to you. Their huge Ole Hickory smoker is an all-inclusive wood pit assembled in Cape Giradeau, Missouri, complete with trailer, hubcaps, brake lights and a license plate. It’s a hit with carnivores at picnics, fairs, festivals and food truck events.

Traditional pork barbecue is always from the shoulder. Depending on where you are on the map, it’s either chopped, sliced or pulled off the bone. Ribs can be the full St. Louis cut (the traditional spare rib), or trimmed lengthwise to make baby backs. Say, “’Cue me!” in Texas and you’ll end up with beef brisket — shredded, sliced or chopped. And don’t forget the chicken: Bethany Blues smokes quarters and parts until they’re golden brown and the aromatic meat falls off the bone.

Backyard grilling over flaming coals is OK, but as far as I’m concerned, it’s all about the smoke. Low temperatures, lots of time, and an ample supply of icy cold beer (or one of the hundreds of bourbons available at Bethany Blues) can help ensure that we remain faithful to that 18th Century definition of “barbecue” quoted above.