Why bother reviewing bad wine?

The current state of affairs reminds of one of my fav quotes from George Orwell’s “1984” – “Every record has been destroyed or falsified, every book rewritten, every picture has been repainted, every statue and street building has been renamed, every date has been altered. And the process is continuing day by day and minute by minute. History has stopped. Nothing exists except an endless present in which the Party is always right.” I would like to insert “nattering nabobs of negativism” in place of “the Party.” Orwell appears more prescient as time passes. Soon, the Santayana admonition from 1905, “Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it,” and its many iterations may come into play. No holidays listed on calendars because some may be offended? Have we lost our collective minds? While drinking wine won’t resolve most issues, for me, it dulls the pain.

Many dads who like to grill or barbecue may enjoy Ehlers Estate Napa Cab 2017, made with 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cab Franc and aged 22 months in 49% new oak. I was surprised it was approachable now, given its construction, especially considering the 20% CF and oak exposure. Generally, CF is added to provide tannin and color. As expected, the wine was a very dark purple with a dark-garnet rim. On opening, it was slightly closed, so we decanted. This had the salubrious effect of releasing a complex bouquet redolent of violets, blackberry, cherry, ripe black olives and barrel-driven spices. Tannins were less pronounced than I was expecting but adequate to support cellaring. The palate showed more berries, chocolate and an interesting minerally acidity that carried through a long, clean finish. The wine will drink now but improve with some cellaring and last more than 10 years. WS rated it 91 points, WE 92. I’m at 91 but adding 1 price point under $60. Stonestreet Estate Alexander Valley Cab 2017, produced by Jess Jackson’s son Christopher, is 100% Cab Sauv, aged 19 months in 38% new French oak, $45, 90 McD. They also sell Stonestreet Estate Rockfall. With the exception of a 90-point 2014, its past seven vintages have rated 92 or better. RP loved the 2013 and ‘15; he rated the ‘16 at 91 and said it was a bit light-bodied. These will set you back $100-plus. For $135, you can impress Pop with three from the Alexander Valley. If you can locate some of the 2016 under $45, grab it with both hands, 93 McD. I saw some at Gary’s in Wayne, N.J., so it is around.

Harold emailed with the comment, “You rarely pan any wine. Why is that?” There is a plethora of wine well made by hardworking farmers, vintners and their staff. Why write of roads better left untraveled? Within certain limits, palate is perceived differently by groups. I’ve been fortunate to teach large gatherings of new winos and seen this exhibited on most occasions in these classes. I employ an extract kit for flavor and another for aromas to help attendees wake up their perception. Based on experience, there are about four main groupings of palates. Within each is a wide variety of nuanced appreciations. Black espresso to those who prefer two sugars and cream conundrum applies. Who am I to tell a wide audience what works for each? In the case of advice for winos, my policy is to ask readers to sample some of those recommended and if you enjoy them, continue reading. Those few who make a face like your first lemon should find another advisor. For example, how many recognize that the palate can only detect salt, sugar, bitter, acidity, and most claim umami? The balance of flavor descriptions come from the nose and retro nasal canal, and are driven by your memory of specific scents. According to a 2016 Harvard study, “In contrast to the small number of basic tastes, humans are able to recognize more than 10,000 different odors.” Unlike taste, humans are amazingly sensitive to smell. We are able to detect the aroma of certain volatile compounds at the level of one part per trillion, and a few at levels even 1,000 times lower. Where perception problems exist, it’s normally due to lack of exposure to the real deal and/or accepting improperly labeled ingredient descriptions as accurate. Food scientists are trickier than Dr. Fauci. Let’s close by wishing all fathers a wonderful Father’s Day.